|4,846 page views|
Midway up Dogleg
Very nice! Climb up an initial face section to gain the crack. The crack was off-fingers for me and a bit tricky, but patience will prevail. Good protection. Follow the vertical crack as it "doglegs" up and right to the top.
Standard rack, nuts and cams.
Photo by Chris Parks.
BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - West Face
Loving the hand jams
Dogleg, Joshua Tree.
First 20 feet of Dog leg
anonymous climber on Dogleg, 1/7/12
That same anonymous climber on "Dogleg".
Photo by ...
Trying to get pass the crux
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 6, 2003
The book suggests a rack to 2".
I suggest a rack to 3.5" You can pro it quite well with a double set of Camalots to #3 plus a 3.5. and the standard small tricams + set of nuts.
To avoid the insecure/hard start, step into the climb from a stance off to the right.
|By Woody Stark|
Apr 9, 2003
I and others are responsible for the rating problem on this route. In the sixties ratings were a good deal more conservative than today. It should be a solid nine and sustained.
|By David Evans|
Apr 11, 2003
I agree with Woody. Dogleg is 5.9. I used to solo it on a regular basis, would never solo it now.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 4, 2004
As a solid 5.10 crack climber, I worked pretty hard on this route. My ego liked reading the comments above calling this route a possible 5.9. The start was pretty hard and while there are great stances throughout the climb, it is pretty sustained. With that said, leaving it as 5.8 or 5.8+ is probably appropriate as it isn't nearly as hard as Damper. But, no matter the rating, it is still a very fun climb.
A number 3 camalot is very nice to have as the crack doglegs to the right.
|By Woody Stark|
Feb 5, 2005
Led it again today. I still think it's a solid nine, as did my partner.
|By bert Vergara|
Jun 17, 2005
Great Route, Definitely an 5.8 or better. The crack spits you out about 3/4 up the route in one short section. It's commiting, but the moves are there if your head is.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Oct 13, 2006
Bit of a grunt this one. I wouldn't argue with 5.9.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 27, 2007
An excellent route. I thought the start move seemed very hard, but the rest of the climb was sinker hands for me. I have no idea what the start should be rated, but all but the first five feet felt about 5.8.
|By Kayte Knower|
Mar 27, 2007
Really sustained, engaging jamming. I got punished on the start. I hope I was doing it wrong.
|By Darren D.|
Apr 12, 2007
Apparently you can traverse in right to make the start easier. This is a nice crack and makes a good "approach" for Geronimo on the other side of the formation.
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 22, 2007
I'd agree with most of the above statements. The route seemed to want to spit me out constantly. I'd suggest a solid 5.8+ rating, and if 5.8 is your limit, start on double cross and then climb this one.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 26, 2007
The route has been upgraded to 5.9 in the new Vogel JTree West guide.
|By Jon Hanlon|
Dec 31, 2007
Felt 5.9 to me...
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 5, 2008
This route takes a nice assortment of gear for the budding leader. Nothing too small or large needed for the climb itself. As you creep up the arch towards the top the rock quality drops a bit but the face moves are pretty good. Consider not burning your large piece as it could be used the the anchor.
Getting on the route could be considered the crux. Protect with 1" cam in small pod and just lob into it.
Minimum 2.5" cams & nuts for the belay. Rap the formation directly behind this route on the North side.
edit: This route still sports a fixed pin mid-way that seems bomber but easily backed up.
Nov 24, 2008
Lot's of discussion about the rating of this route! I was fortunate enough to lead both Touch and Go (5.9) and Dogleg (5.8+) on the same day, in that order. For me, Dogleg seemed a half grade easier than TNG, but that could be the mix of techniques on TNG. Could be there were more opportunities to rest on Dogleg. I felt comfortable protecting the first move with a 0.4 BD. but other options exist.
|By Brian Hench|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 30, 2009
I've shied away from leading this one for a long time because of all sorts of comments like the ones above. When I finally led it, it seemed a lot easier than I expected it to. It has lots of good rests all along it's length. The hardest move for me was not the start but in the vicinity of the piton. I used a combination of foot jamming and stemming that got me to the next jug.
To get down we climbed up and over and down to a ledge and rap station on the east side. A single rope rap took us to the ground. Is that the best way? Seemed easy enough.
From: Boise, ID
Feb 22, 2010
The climb was fun and sustained, with great pro once you get past the start. After the thin start it was pretty much narrow but bomber hand and foot jams the whole way. The tricky part for me was that the flare outside of the main crack often made it awkward to get my feet all the way in for a good jam. I can understand the debate over the grade, but with the great hand jams and numerous rests, I think I'll say very solid 5.8. We climbed Pope's Crack next which definitley felt more difficult.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Mar 31, 2010
Pink tricam protects the first move perfectly. Sink the pink!
|By Pete eye|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 7, 2010
bright orange tcu offwidth too. 5.8+ is 5.9, dogleg is killer
Dec 20, 2010
I TRed this one...it felt pretty tough to me, as a beginner crack climber. I got fed up with inching up the crack, so I moved out to the face for ~20 feet around 3/4 of the way though the climb, until the crack gets much easier. That was actually really fun, and surprisingly clean.
|By Chris Keefe|
Mar 16, 2012
Does anyone know the type or history of the bolt on the face to the right of the start of Dog Leg's dog leg?
I'm no expert, but It appears to be a buttonhead. If I remember correctly, the hanger looked pretty solid, and the head itself was larger than I'd expected.
I had a few nervy moments inspecting it before leaving a sling and lowering (very gingerly) when dark came on faster than expected.
The bolt held up well to pulling (outward), and side-to-side forces, and safeguarded my descent well enough, but I'd love to learn from this for future reference.
From: Oakland CA
Mar 17, 2012
Looks like the top bolt for The Cavity .11d. Put up by Gaines and Mayville in 94. Less than 20 years old, two guys who know what they're doing. I hope you didn't lower directly through a sling.
|By Chris Keefe|
May 28, 2012
Sure didn't, @caughtinside. Just a little crag booty for the next .11d climber up.