Dogleg Crack  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Bill Bradley, Joe Herbst. Spring 1979. Submitted By:  John Hegyes on Jul 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Dogleg Crack

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Description 

Dogleg Crack is located on the lower, northeast side of Bridge Mountain, about 200 yards east of Necromancer Wall. The Crack is the most recognizable feature - it is S-shaped - and it's on a large free-standing pillar of mostly brown varnished rock. Sight the pillar from the Icebox parking lot, head up the trail a ways until you can cut south through the wash and bushwhack up the slope to the base of the climb.

The route starts as an off-width chimney which is not very well protected. Proceed up the crack to a large ledge at the base of a dihedral on the right side of the pillar. Shoot up the left face to the top of the feature. You can climb the route in a single 200 foot pitch or belay at the ledge which would help alleviate rope drag.

Walk off down the gully on the left (east) side of the pillar back to the base of the climb. There is an optional short rappel at the start of this descent.

The Red Book describes this as "a popular crack climb," yet I had the feeling that it hadn't been climbed in years. The 5.8 rating seemed inconsistent with the old Herbst routes, for me this climb was much easier than say, Atras, the climb closer to Necromancer Wall.

Protection 

Standard rack with a couple of larger pieces up to Camalot #4 or #4.5

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Dogleg Crack from the bottom