DoggyStyle 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | T. Phillips, L. Douglas, Summer 05' |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Topo
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start from the same area as Stifflers Mom.
P1. Start in broken dihedral climb up clipping fixed pin to a mini roof. Clip bolts along the edge for some truley exicting moves. The pitch was meant to stay on the arete after the first two bolts. 5.10+
P2. Climb up from belay through broken sections to a short slab with 1 bolt to the belay. 5.7+
P3. From belay climb up and right clipping fixed pin to killer handcrack that passes the roof on the right side. After pulling around the roof clip bolt and friction along the lip of the roof to another bolt. Climb straight up to belay. 5.10
P4. From belay follow obvious bolt line along arete to anchor. 5.8
It is possible to continue onto Stifflers Mom 5th pitch or the 5th pitch of the Precious Lost for a longer journey. which you need a 70m for.
the route was named in honor of the MAN Snoop Dogg.
It was one of the most exciting ground up adventures I've had in LCC.
Protection Rack: QD's a standard rack up to #2 camalot (two #2's are nice). A 60m rope will let you rap route with 1 rope.
Pitch 4, great clean slabbing
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By climbergirlinLCC
Jun 4, 2006
| Holy Shnikeys Batman! What a route! Tried not to fall over all the lips of roofs/edges. Super fun, bring 2 #2 camalots for the 3rd. |
By Furguson
Aug 10, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| Contrived link-up of dirt ledges via moss covered exfoliating slab with 15 ft of good crack climbing on the third pitch. May clean up sometime, but not worth 2 stars… |
By tenesmus
May 28, 2007
| I thought that arete was cool, the hand crack traverse was cool, and the last 5.8 pitch would be a really great lead for a 5.8 or 9 slab climber - it was really enjoyable. |
By zoso
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.10
| 3rd pitch seemed less than 5.10 to me and I'm not very svelte.
Great route, thanks. |
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2011
| Hands-down the worst route on the buttress. Choss galore. |
By Daniel Winder
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.10-
| The first pitch traverses left more than is indicated in the topo. A fall would likely drop you over the edge of a razor sharp arete. Spooky, maybe consider double ropes. The climbing is slightly contrived but the third pitch roof is great. At the top of the route make an easy left traverse to the base of the money pitch on Stifflers.
Edit: Ok, "razor sharp" is a bit dramatic, but it's still sharp enough to wreak havoc on the cord, IMO |
By zoso
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.10
| "Razor sharp" is a pretty good exageration.
Did this again today and ya, it was a tad dirty here and there, but certainly not chossy. Adds to the adventure imo. |
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