Doggie Do 5.10a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Will S on Jun 28, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Doggie Do. Crux is exiting the pod.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This short OW is mostly moderate, punctuated with a short difficult crux coming out of the pod.
Location The route is located 10' left of the first pitch squeeze chimney of Doggie Diversions just left of where the streambed first meets the wall. Walk off climbers left.
Protection Big cams, #3 camalot to #4.5 camalot, optional hand sized piece.
Steve Moyles in the crux.
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Me on Doggie Do. This is right about the time I wa...
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Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Oct 19, 2008
| I agree that the crux is exiting the pod. I wore my approach shoe on my right foot which made the lower part really easy. But try as I might, I really struggled on the upper part. I ended up using several versions of hand stacks and was able to crank though.
My Buddy Tristan tried to lead this before I got on it. He simply slid the green C4 ahead of him for the whole lower part. and a purple for the upper. He had been feeling a bit sick all week and the fight with the crux made him "want to throw up!" Several times he looked down with a pretty nasty look and I thought, here it comes. |
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Feb 18, 2010
| this route is felt way harder than 10a - calf locks with hand stacks is the ticket on crux section |
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Feb 1, 2011
| It's harder than it looks from the ground. Can't quite get my knee jam to stick in the OW while exiting the pod. There's many Valley OW's of the grade (Secret Storm, Sacherer Cracker, Chingando, Reed's Left) that feel substantially easier. |
By Phil Esra
May 2, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| felt harder than Generator Crack to me. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 19, 2011
| What's with the hand stacks? The flare felt too tight and deep for me to get any stacks. I just couldn't get both hands deep enough into the crack. Better to side pull crimp on the inside crack and other features until you can sidepull on a jam in the inside crack. Careful foot stacking on the flare brings you out OK. Once your feet are past the blocks in the pod, it seemed to climb well as a squeeze chimney.
A #6 BD C4 is all you need for the bottom half, then a #4 BD C4 can be left as a backup just below the crux, and a #5 BD C4 can be pushed through the crux. Another #4 BD (or a #3?) can be placed to protect the final twist & exit as you've left the #5 behind by then. |
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 21, 2012
| FA: Chris Fredericks, by 1970 |
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 13, 2012
| The FA was indeed by Chris Fredericks, but it was Summer, 1965. |
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| wiggle wiggle wiggle!
Bring gear to 5" and you will be fine. No need for double of anything. |
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