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Camp 4 Wall
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Buttocks, The T 
Cheek T 
Chopper T 
Cid's Embrace T 
Doggie Deviations T 
Doggie Diversions T 
Doggie Do T,TR 
Edge of Night T 
Henley Quits T 
Lancelot T 
Secret Storm T 
Tweedle Dee T 
Young and the Restless T 

Doggie Diversions 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe Faint and Yvon Chouinard (June '67)
Page Views: 1,056
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 1, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

This is my favorite of the "Doggie" climbs. Chimney up 40 ft to a small ledge and then cast off on the long right-leaning offwidth crack. The climbing is physical and awkward but still manages to be enjoyable thanks to the excellent rock quality and great exposure. There is an occasional knob below the crack for you to stand on and catch your breath. It shares the same tree anchor as Doggie Deviations, which can easily be toproped after leading this one.

The offwidth requires several larger cams if you want to protect it. These are a pain to haul up the short squeeze chimney at the start. The easiest way to do this is scramble to the top of the chimney from the left side (3rd class) and leave the gear on the ledge. Then you're free to solo up the 5.6 chimney unencumbered, pick up your rack at the top, and continue on with the rest of the climb.

Location 

Located between Doggie Do and Doggie Deviations.

Protection 

Pro to 5", w/doubles from 3-5"


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By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

P1 (5.6-5.7): Great chimney. Don't bother trying to place pro. It's futile and the chimney is pretty secure, although a spot for the first 10 ft might keep things safer. After this you go sideways enough that you'll only fall/slide into the chimney instead of out of it. You can place a #5 Camalot or a #2 Camalot in the flake at the very end, but these pieces only protect the exit from the pitch.

Do this pitch the right way for wide leading training and bring all your wide gear for P2 with you. Just trail it on a line and it will dangle out of the way just fine. Or just rack all of your large cams on the front-right gear loop and this stays out of the way well enough. Gear sling works well here too. (I used a combination of the last two).

This pitch links well with the second pitch, although if you do that I strongly recommend only placing a #2 Camalot and saving your #5 Camalot for the wide 5.9!

P2 (5.9+): A lot harder and more tiring than it looks! Good rests are difficult to find and placing pro is a bit awkward. 2 #5 Camalots would make this secure (the crack pinches off halfway through before widening again, so you can't really push the #5 all the way along). #4 Camalots barely work in some sections but you need to be real careful with the placments. I placed a #6 Camalot to protect the entry to get my remaining #5 Camalot to last longer, but this isn't all that necessary. Hand stacks are probably the best way to go at the crux. Crack thins towards the end. Take the right crack for rapping from the Doggie Deviations anchor, or take the nice left handcrack to continue on to pitch 3.

P3 (5.8+): Starts with a bulging flare, protected by a #5 Camalot. This felt like a pretty stout 5.8.

Around the corner there is an unprotected 5.7 corner to side-pull traverse on crumbly granite above a ledge but it is secure enough if you watch the grit and loose flake.

Next is a great set of leaning 5.8 double cracks: Thin hands on the left and fingers for jamming & side-pulling on the right. There are rap slings & rings at the tree atop this section, though the route wanders enough I don't know where you'd want to attempt to rappel. Beyond the tree is a dirty 5.6 chimney ascent & traverse, but if you chimney high enough you stay out of the dirty debris collected at the base. You can barely make it to some boulders with cracks for 1-2" gear for an anchor at about 55m into the pitch.

Descent:
Walk off to the NE. As you near the gulley cut down more to the east to old rap slings w/o rings (these need replacing!). You can downclimb the 2 short steps here but they are dirty, mossy, loose and awkward, but the rap works well. After the rap descend to the East veering south as you walk around the Buttocks.

P3 is worth doing. The major downside is the bit of rough grit and dirt, but this would clean out if it got more traffic.
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Dec 19, 2011

Our guidebook listed a generic rack "pro to 3 inches."

There is no place on this climb as narrow as 3 inches.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 20, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Maybe the guide should have clarified a rack ranging "down" to 3 inches :-o
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jul 18, 2012

Topped out this climb for the first time last week. The double cracks near the top were actually more scary than enjoyable. The flake they are on is very hollow and just hanging on the wall. Knock on it every 5 feet as you climb up and you'll hear the tone change as the flake thins out.

**donk donk**

**dunk dunk**

**dink dink**

There's also a dead rotten tree trunk below the final chimney that is super ready to go. Lots of loose stuff in general. But yeah it's worth climbing to the top once, maybe on a day when no one else is hanging around the cliff.