|Magic Mountain - East
This is a great route!!!
I am sure it would see lots of traffic if it were a little easier to get to, or surrounded by lots of other great climbs.
There is a little bit of everything, perfect hands, wide fingers, fingers, really thin fingers, few face moves, couple slopers, it has it all.
Almost all of it is on great rock, a tiny bit sandy in places but in all really very good and solid.
From the main pink corner, head up the bushy gully to your left/south. There is a little 3/4th class near the top, not bad really, and a few loose rocks down low. Really the climb is worth it. You will see the crack heading up the white east facing face. It starts out wide, goes to hands, then to fingers and thinner, then to a little ledge, then thin fingers/edges to a small pine tree, then straight on up. The anchor is about 15 feet above the small pine tree on the face.
I had a double set to #3 camalot, singles of black and blue alien (.1, .2 camalot)and a set of nuts. Didn't use to many nuts, the crack in many places was to parallel. I would not have minded an extra green and yellow alien.
There are anchors at the top of the climb, it is made up of 3 fixed nuts, and could do with a little new webbing and reworking. The nuts are bomber, just the webbing/cord looks a little old. I replaced some and it could do with a little more.
The rap s just possible (5-8 Ft) rope remaining when using 2 50m ropes, a pair of 60's gets you down with plenty
BETA PHOTO: Over view from Pine Creek parking lot.
BETA PHOTO: Over view of the Pink Corners area.
BETA PHOTO: Close up of Dog Police
Looking up at the upper part of the route from the...
BETA PHOTO: Another topo of the route
Looking up the splitter finger crack from near the...
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 23, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Some of the best 5.10 crack climbing I have done in RR- spectacular finger crack on the first pitch.
Bring more than one black alien and some small nuts for the second pitch- I would say the second pitch is just as hard as the first, but not as sustained.
Overall, amazing route. Well worth the hike.
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 26, 2008
Got on this thing this weekend. Oh man, what a little gem. probably one of the best cracks at Red Rocks.
A real buttkick to get up there and it still looks like crap from the base but then you get on it and will be blown away by the movement.
Oct 5, 2011
I did this as a single pitch, not sure why, maybe it just made more sense.
I had a pair of 50's and just made it.
|By Richard Shore|
Feb 20, 2013
Simply outstanding! One of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Too bad nobody goes up there... bit of a bushwhack, 4th class approach. I trundled a handful of large loose blocks from the optional belay ledge while on rappel. The rap anchor could definitely use some love too - bring a knife and a good length of tan or green color cord/webbing to replace the rat's nest on the fixed nuts up there. 2-60M ropes will let you rap past the 4th class approach. We totally expected a nightmare of stuck rope in the oak trees on the starting ledge, but pulled down surprisingly clean and easy.
As far as one or two pitches - you'd need to belay off some microcams/tiny nuts if you stop at the ledge. Blast to the top for 170' of finger-jamming goodness.
|By Michael Kimm|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beautiful route. I found it really chill at the grade, but I have really small hands and fingers. A pain to get to, but well worth it!