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Dog Day Afternoon 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 28'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FA: (TR) Dag Kolsrud, (FL) Claude Fiddler
Season: All
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Adam Winters on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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A. Winters wrenching on the last finger lock befor...

Description 

Short, sweet and STEEP!

Overhanging hands to fingers with a thin-hands crux.

Poorly-placed bolt anchor on a small detached vibrating block (see photo to right - someone wanna move this?).



Photos of Dog Day Afternoon Slideshow Add Photo
Mitch Musci battles the thin-hands crux and likes pizza.
Mitch Musci battles the thin-hands crux and likes ...
JP locking the sequence on the send.
JP locking the sequence on the send.
Comments on Dog Day Afternoon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Aug 22, 2007

FA: Dag Kolsrud TR, Claude Fiddler first lead.

By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

WARNING!!!! DO NOT RAP OFF THIS ANCHOR!!! MAJOR DEATH POTENTIAL!!!

Ditto on the absolutely sketchy anchor placement. That block is very loose!! I can't believe that I saw ASCA stamped on the hangers!! WHOMEVER PUT THIS NEW ANCHOR IN NEEDS TO HAVE THEIR DRILL TAKEN AWAY FROM THEM AND THEIR BOLTING PRIVILEGES REVOKED!!! Aside from some alpine anchors, this is the scariest one I have ever seen and one of the poorest examples of "Safe Climbing" ever!!

The proper bolting "local authorities" have been notified!!

Cool, short route otherwise!!

By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
May 31, 2008

Great route...but an absolute ASS KICKER. Short, steep and fierce.

Never noticed the vibrating block...did notice that the anchor placement itself is just STUPID...lots of that in Little Egypt.