Dog Day Afternoon 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 28 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | FA: (TR) Dag Kolsrud, (FL) Claude Fiddler |
| Season: | All |
| Submitted By: | Adam Winters on Apr 7, 2007 |
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A. Winters wrenching on the last finger lock befor...
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Description Short, sweet and STEEP! Overhanging hands to fingers with a thin-hands crux. Poorly-placed bolt anchor on a small detached vibrating block (see photo to right - someone wanna move this?).
Mitch Musci battles the thin-hands crux and likes ...
| JP locking the sequence on the send.
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| Comments on Dog Day Afternoon |
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By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Aug 22, 2007
| FA: Dag Kolsrud TR, Claude Fiddler first lead. |
By Alex Shainman From: Portland, OR Sep 12, 2007 rating: 5.11
| WARNING!!!! DO NOT RAP OFF THIS ANCHOR!!! MAJOR DEATH POTENTIAL!!! Ditto on the absolutely sketchy anchor placement. That block is very loose!! I can't believe that I saw ASCA stamped on the hangers!! WHOMEVER PUT THIS NEW ANCHOR IN NEEDS TO HAVE THEIR DRILL TAKEN AWAY FROM THEM AND THEIR BOLTING PRIVILEGES REVOKED!!! Aside from some alpine anchors, this is the scariest one I have ever seen and one of the poorest examples of "Safe Climbing" ever!! The proper bolting "local authorities" have been notified!! Cool, short route otherwise!! |
By Vic Lawson From: Bishop, CA May 31, 2008
| Great route...but an absolute ASS KICKER. Short, steep and fierce. Never noticed the vibrating block...did notice that the anchor placement itself is just STUPID...lots of that in Little Egypt. |
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