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Does slacklining help your rock climbing?
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By Tom Nyce
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 24, 2014
Down low, before the Y and the Railroad couloirs s...
Does it help your climbing, or is it just really fun? Just curious about people's opinions on this.

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Jul 24, 2014
Yes.

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By Jonathan Petsch
From Fort Collins, CO
Jul 24, 2014
no.

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By Chase Bowman
From Canton, Georgia
Jul 24, 2014
The top of the main face.
i think it helps a lot with overall balance kind of stuff. I've been slack lining for two years and i find it helpful on those blank granite slabs. Theres a lot of those kinda climbs around me and balance is a key factor in that style. (all the slabs are at like a 40-70 degrees)

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By slim
Administrator
Jul 24, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i don't see how the balance required in slacklining would really have much crossover for climbing. maybe skiing, but not so much climbing.

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By Hiro
From Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2014
Ouray Ice Park Pick o' the Vic?
Dynamic balance not usually required I'm thinking, since the rock doesn't usually move...usually.

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By CorbinW
Jul 24, 2014
I have found that from slack lining, I have a better sense of balance when I am climbing. Aka peeling off has went down a lot since I started slack lining.

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By Ryan Palo
From Bend, oregon
Jul 24, 2014
Me
No. Neither does yoga. Climbing, sport specific training, and weight loss will help your climbing.

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By Ashley A
From Salt Lake City
Jul 24, 2014
I think it has helped my climbing a lot. You really have to focus and that for me is what is really helpful. I noticed that after I was up to walking 50' and longer lines, my wheels spun a lot less when I was running it out. I think slack lining, yoga or anything that forces you to be calm, focused, aware of your breath and center of balance is fantastic for climbing. Especially for people like me, who find the mental game is more challenging than the physical aspects.

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By J. Serpico
From Saratoga County, NY
Jul 24, 2014
Ashley A wrote:
I think it has helped my climbing a lot. You really have to focus and that for me is what is really helpful. I noticed that after I was up to walking 50' and longer lines, my wheels spun a lot less when I was running it out. I think slack lining, yoga or anything that forces you to be calm, focused, aware of your breath and center of balance is fantastic for climbing. Especially for people like me, who find the mental game is more challenging than the physical aspects.


I've really never done much slack lining. But the above reasoning is pretty sensible. Basically meditation.

I'm with the poster, even when I was very strong (for me), I found leading was entirely bottlenecked by the mental aspects, if her rationale is legit, it can't hurt.

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By Pontoon
From Minneapolis, Minnesota
Jul 24, 2014
I read a book that said "no." Or at least "not much, your time can be better spent doing other kinds of more useful training."

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By portercassidy
From UT/CO
Jul 24, 2014
Deep in a slot canyon, somewhere on the colorado p...
I have found it best helps with beer drinking, once you combine the two.

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By 20 kN
Administrator
From Hawaii
Jul 25, 2014
No, although highlining can help with your lead head.

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By Simon W
Jul 25, 2014
Foreplay at The Pinnacles
No, but it will help your hacky sacking

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By 20 kN
Administrator
From Hawaii
Jul 25, 2014
Does doing an Ironman help with climbing? What about becoming a 7th degree black belt in Taekwondo? How about becoming a Marine MARSOC operator?

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By David Morgantini
From London, United Kingdom
Jul 25, 2014
Climbing on Kum Laude
20 kN wrote:
Does doing an Ironman help with climbing?


No, because it will destroy your relationship with your climbing partner (and life partner potentially) as you spend all your time training for the fucking thing.

20 kN wrote:
What about becoming a 7th degree black belt in Taekwondo?


Yes, because you will be able to kick the shit outta anybody who tries to steal your gear and/or first ascents.

20 kN wrote:
How about becoming a Marine MARSOC operator?


No, because your ass will become fat from sitting operating the thing. (I think, since I have no idea what a MARSOC is, and am too lazy to google it)

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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Jul 25, 2014
David Morgantini wrote:
No, because your ass will become fat from sitting operating the thing. (I think, since I have no idea what a MARSOC is, and am too lazy to google it)


From this, marsoc.com/ it does not appear that the primary health risk is obesity.

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By T Howes
From Sisters, OR
Jul 25, 2014
The one physical application of slacklining (mental game aside) that I felt helped my climbing is the ability to stand up with only one point of contact. Doing a sit-start on a slackline and standing up on one leg. Think high stepping and being able stand and completely extend your leg without the help of your hands. There is a bit of core strength and muscle memory necessary to keep your leg from shaking in order to pull off this move.

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By J. Kincaid
Jul 25, 2014
Tobacco Road, 5.12b Summersville WV
Slacklining improves my footwork. I feel like I'm a lot more controlled and precise while climbing if I have been slacklining.

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By george wilkey
From travelers rest sc
Jul 25, 2014
me
so, when you boil it all down, the answer is: yes and no

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By Jfaub
From Ottawa, On
Jul 25, 2014
Eastern Bloc slab.
Ryan Palo wrote:
No. Neither does yoga. Climbing, sport specific training, and weight loss will help your climbing.


Exactly. You will get absolutely no skill transfer to climbing from some other activity that is not climbing. Plain and simple. Many training for climbing books talk about this in detail. Sport specfic training and some weight loss will improve performance, but the only way to get better at the specific skill sets required in climbing rock is to climb rock.

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 25, 2014
OTL
Climbing helps my slacklining.







^not true - I don't slackline.

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By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Jul 25, 2014
Ryan Palo wrote:
No. Neither does yoga. Climbing, sport specific training, and weight loss will help your climbing.

While that is mostly true, we've all seen people crossed over from a different discipline who are extremely good at certain aspects of climbing, in fact, probably as good or better than the very elite climbers. Which is to say, while a large portion of climbing performance is very specific to the sport, there is a portion that may not get exercised very much just thru climbing, especially if you've already adopted a style or even route preferences that under emphasizes those aspects. But if you are very bad at them (and there are plenty of climbers w/ pretty horrible deficiencies but can climb really hard grades by virtue of having really strong fingers), it may not be a bad idea to pick up something else.

IMO, current climbing training literature is pretty deficient in that non-sport specific 20-30%; it's like everyone just wants to sweep them under the rug. Having a strong martial arts background before climbing, I get pretty frustrated when trying to help climbers (that have had little exposure to other sports) w/ certain strength & power deficiencies (some are affecting joint health). I don't want to tell them to practice martial arts or gymnastics, but there aren't any climbing training materials that specifically address these issues.

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By Matt Roberts
From Columbus, OH
Jul 25, 2014
Hittin' Miguel's with the new Chimps in tow
george wilkey wrote:
so, when you boil it all down, the answer is: yes and no


This. All of you pointing out the training research...that is for elite athletes. Few elite athletes post on MP.com, IMHO. The better question for the thread is: up to what level of [trad/sport/alpine/bouldering] will slack lining be beneficial. I believe that for many, many 5.9-5.11 climbers, especially in areas where vertical or slab terrain are common, slack lining could be very beneficial. For someone who climbs in the 5.12-5.13 range at the RRG? Doubtful. For Megos or Ondra? Doubtful. For someone just starting out who doesn't even know that they have feet? Doubtful.

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By 20 kN
Administrator
From Hawaii
Jul 26, 2014
Matt Roberts wrote:
The better question for the thread is: up to what level of [trad/sport/alpine/bouldering] will slack lining be beneficial.

No level. 5.9 or 5.15, it doesent help even remotely as much as actually climbing does. Again, highlining can help a bit, but otherwise, meh. I have walked 450' longlines and highlined on some of the highest highlines in the world, and neither did anything for my climbing (at 5.12). I did learn some new tricks about gear, and expended my knowledge base, but as far as sending harder, nope. Slacklining did, however, help me get better at slacklining. ;)

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