Does climbing at Indian Creek too much hurt your lead head?

Perhaps a little bit of a troll but I think there's a germ of truth to it and wondered what others thought.

I'm from Minnesota and for years took most of my road trips to Jtree and Yosemite partly out of habit, partly because of easy access (I fly for free standby), and partly because I wanted to become a good all-around climber.

Even after I had the necessary skills and gear I avoided Indian Creek for a number of years because of observations of a couple of climbing partners. Two different partners that I had climbed with a few times each I noticed seemed less comfortable leading at Jtree or Yosemite after they had spent a bunch of time in Indian Creek.

After I had shoulder surgery followed by a large drop in climbing level I decided to try Indian Creek as I had climbed out the classics at my normal haunts for my current climbing level. I loved it - but afterwards climbing at other areas did take a little adjustment to get the lead head back to normal. But with the less frequent climbing my shoulder now allows it's harder to say what is normal.

I believe the very straight forward placement of gear found at Indian Creek, the fact that it is almost all cams, the less route finding, the less sideways wandering, and the fact that you usually lower rather than belaying on top can lead to a poorer all around trad lead head if you climb at Indian Creek too much. What do you think?

Does sport climbing hurt your lead head?
Indian Creek is just sport climbing with cams.

Highlander wrote:Does sport climbing hurt your lead head? Indian Creek is just sport climbing with cams.

Sport climbing is usually scarier than the creek. I never found it hurt my lead head too much though.

take less gear to IC, problem solved

climb everything using only hexes. that'll get your lead head back.

Lou, it sounds like you could do with a week on the gritstone in England to get your head back. Just don't come right now, the county's under water.

george wilkey wrote:climb everything using only hexes. that'll get your lead head back.

No.

I think the best way to get your head back is to fall, a lot. The creek is actually a pretty good place for that.

I am currently in the middle of my second week climbing at the creek. I actually arrived with my lead head pretty screwy. I had been climbing in an area known for low cruxes, and roof climbing in cracks. The creek helped me to get my lead head back because the routes are long and straight forward. I havent taken a fall yet in these two weeks, but I find that I am feeling very comfortable with the thought of doing it.

Climb harder routes, no shit hand cracks are easy. Tell me how easy it is to place yellow TCU's on Ruby's Cafe, or that you wont get a solid lead head punting off Air Sweden onto a nest of finger gear. Climb some OW and tell me how easy Big Guy and Big Baby are. Ever thought about having to stack through your eternal top-rope? Don't place gear over your head @ IC, learn how to place at your waist and become comfortable WAY over it? Climb some towers out there and tell me how straightforward the gear is.

I bet you've only been there once? Nuff said... I'm done.

Decent rant