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Does anyone know the conditions on the flying Dutchman on longs?
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By AaronPugmire
Mar 8, 2012
Thinking about doing the flying dutchman on longs on Sunday was just wondering if anyone has any bata on it. Thanks

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By tsuji
From Boulder, CO
Mar 8, 2012
On Peak 11,300 in the Ruth
I don't think this will be super relevant but I climbed it about two weeks ago. Somewhat deep snow and the crux had a thin smearing of ice on it. Good luck!

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By Dylan Cousins
Mar 8, 2012
I was up there with Tsuji the weekend of Feb 18th. The snow was knee to thigh deep most of the way up. However, I was up on Keiner's this past weekend and the place has been blasted by wind recently. North facing stuff is highly variable. Could be down to last year's snow (nice climbing) or nearly waist deep (not so nice climbing). A few sticks of ice through the crux but not much. It will keep getting better through the spring, though. There is a lot of somewhat reactive windslab in Lamb's Slide, but there is a nice slung block at the bottom of the snowfield above the loft (bring double ropes to do this rappel or be prepared to drill a v-thread because 1 60m deposits you on water ice).

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By andy ducomb
From anchorage
Mar 8, 2012
yep good bata from these guys. deep snow and dubstep on dutchman. tons of good sticks on keiner's bro.
climb martha in the sun.

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By Ryan N
From Palo Alto
Mar 8, 2012
RJN
Good beta. I wanna piggy back off this and see if anyone can add conditions of lambs slide? Thinking of lambs to kieners on Saturday. Thanks

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By Dylan Cousins
Mar 9, 2012
Mr Ducomb and I did Lambslide to Kieners this past sunday. At certain points you will be wollowing - but only the most fun kind. Spots in Lambslide are down to the snow from last year which makes for stellar climbing. Spots have deep snow. Simulclimb broadway if you hope to finish before dark.

Oh and regarding your question in the other thread it took us 18 hours C2C.

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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Mar 9, 2012
Imaginate
Dylan Cousins wrote:
I was up there with Tsuji the weekend of Feb 18th. The snow was knee to thigh deep most of the way up. However, I was up on Keiner's this past weekend and the place has been blasted by wind recently. North facing stuff is highly variable. Could be down to last year's snow (nice climbing) or nearly waist deep (not so nice climbing). A few sticks of ice through the crux but not much. It will keep getting better through the spring, though. There is a lot of somewhat reactive windslab in Lamb's Slide, but there is a nice slung block at the bottom of the snowfield above the loft (bring double ropes to do this rappel or be prepared to drill a v-thread because 1 60m deposits you on water ice).


How about a 70m? Will it reach?

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By andy ducomb
From anchorage
Mar 9, 2012
David Appelhans wrote:
How about a 70m? Will it reach?


you will have to down climb some easier ice. having double 60m very preferable .

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By andy ducomb
From anchorage
Mar 9, 2012
Ryan N wrote:
Good beta. I wanna piggy back off this and see if anyone can add conditions of lambs slide? Thinking of lambs to kieners on Saturday. Thanks


Ryan N: here are two photos so you can get an idea. Have a great climb.

Simul Broadway.
Simul Broadway.


Cousins coming off Lambslide.
Cousins coming off Lambslide.

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By Ryan N
From Palo Alto
Mar 9, 2012
RJN
Thanks guys!

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 9, 2012
El Chorro
Jealous.

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