Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Does anyone climb at Purgatory Chasm?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By DFrench
From Cape Ann
Oct 4, 2009
Vervet Monkeys know which site is best.
I'm trying to find some people with any knowledge on routes, grades, or any insight to offer on climbing in Purgatory Chasm in MA. Specifically, is it illegal to boulder even if you have a climbing permit? I just moved here and info is hard to come by.

Thanks,
Doug

FLAG
By Jake D.
From Northeast
Oct 4, 2009
I would suggest looking into Crow hill, Farley, College rock for much better climbing. Purgatory IMO is a massive pile of choss covered in dirt.

you can post on newenglandbouldering.com about the bouldering there but the cliffs themselves are not worth much effort.

FLAG
By Eric Engberg
Oct 5, 2009
There actually is a long history of climbing at Purgatory. It is the very first place I roped up - ~45 years ago. The climbs are mostly short but the rock is good for the most part and there are some good problems.

The legalities of climbing there change from year to year. It's hard to get a straight answer. The best bet is to probably keep a low profile - don't ask don't tell don't argue.

That said - what Jake said also has merit. College Rock and Crow Hill are well established popular climbing areas with no access issues. You are much more likely to run into other climbers there. Assuming you are coming from Shrewsbury they are at least as convenient as Purgatory. If you want to explore a bit further a field Farley or most of the Eastern MA areas are within an hour. Lincoln Woods in RI for top notch bouldering.

If you want the most efficient fix and meet other climbers right here right now - then you'll head to the Central Rock Gym in Worcester.

FLAG
By TradByron
Oct 21, 2009
Yours truly on the Petite Grepon
I'd agree with Eric. Purgatory ain't so bad (it's kinda cool just as a place to go for a hike), but it's probably a better use of your time to head to Crow Hill or College Rock to rope up or to the Woods to boulder, or out to Farley for a bit of everything. Have fun!

FLAG
By Eli Kramer
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 23, 2009
Purgatory closes to climbers for most of the winter... and spring. They yelled at me last April. If you talk to the ranger there (you can call ahead) you can get the most up to date information on access.

FLAG
By Seth14281
Aug 8, 2014
I go to school in Worcester in the fall, winter, and spring seasons, and I'm looking for good places around the area to increase my skills and experience in sport climbing. Do you have any suggestions of places close to worcester for sport? I've been to purgatory to hike, but I didn't see any bolts there on the rock.

FLAG
By Eric Engberg
Aug 8, 2014
Seth14281 wrote:
I go to school in Worcester in the fall, winter, and spring seasons, and I'm looking for good places around the area to increase my skills and experience in sport climbing. Do you have any suggestions of places close to worcester for sport? I've been to purgatory to hike, but I didn't see any bolts there on the rock.


I expect Farley is the nearest place to find what you are looking for.

FLAG
By javd
From East Brookfield MA
Aug 8, 2014
Farley is your closest sport... That has not been chopped. It's about an hour but great. Crow hill is your closest good climbing area but all trad or top rope.
Ross pond in ct off 395 is good but sport routes have been chopped.

FLAG
 
By Joe M.
Aug 18, 2014
Is Podunk closed to climbing? That used to be a fun place close to Worcester...

FLAG
By Eric Engberg
Aug 18, 2014
Joe M. wrote:
Is Podunk closed to climbing? That used to be a fun place close to Worcester...

Not closed but chopped recently - see post prior to yours

FLAG
By javd
From East Brookfield MA
Aug 18, 2014
High Rock's "Podunk" access is seriously being threatened because of the bolt chopping. The bolts were put there by locals. Please don't cross private property without permission. There's public access from the south through Wells State Park.

I'd be happy to give you directions or show you.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.