Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Waimea
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All the Way-A 
Aquarius 
Barracuda 
Big Kahuna 
Bottom Feeder 
Butt Bongo Fiesta 
Catch the Wave 
Charlie Don't Surf 
China Beach 
Cold War 
Concrete Jungle 
Coral Sea 
Cote d'Azure 
Cyberblock 
Dodge the Lemons 
E-Ticket 
Fly, The 
Flying Fish 
Flying Hawaiian 
Gold Coast 
Great White 
Groupie Fantasy 
Hawaii 5-O 
Jaws II 
Livin' Astro 
Localmotion 
Long Board 
Luau 
Man Overboard 
Mauie Wowie 
Muscle Beach 
Open Project 
Original Tsunami 
Restless Native 
Rhythm X 
Riviera  
Short Board 
Sidewalk Surfing 
Silver Surfer 
Spiny Dogfish 
Style That's Free, The 
Suburban 
Surf's Up 
TABDITO 
Technosurfing 
That Crack 
They Died Surfing 
Tsunami 
Tuna Fish is Ludacris 
Urban Surfer 
Vantage Point 
Waimea 
Waimea The Weenie Way 
Whip Tide 

Dodge the Lemons 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 2,654
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Nick, just starting in on the roof of Dodge the Le...

Description 

Locate the very overhanging wall on the right side of Waimea. Dodge climbs the left line (the right line being Riviera, 13d), and starts right where the trail meets the cliff. Climb straight up the wall to the first bolt and then take a hard left past two more bolts until it is possible to head straight up the easier corner.

Dodge starts with difficulty. Though Graham reportedly campused the first few moves and called the route 14a, a sneaky kneebar (see picture at right) makes it slightly more doable at 13c/d. The angle here is pretty much horizontal and the holds all seem like bad pinches. The crux of the route is climbing up to the first bolt (which you should have stick clipped). A kneebar offers a good rest before you embark on the leftward traverse.

Begin climbing left on progressively worsening holds across a hanging feature. The slappy, thrutchy nature of the climbing through this section has been called "violent." A hard move brings you to the end of the traverse. From here, climb the relatively easy corner of Maui Wowie to the top. Though a line of bolts continues up the steep arete, this line is very contrived, as a high foot is all that's required to rock up into the MW corner.

Dodge is a relatively popular climb and feels a lot like an extended boulder problem. Incidentally, it climbs much, much better than it looks.


Protection 

Bolts, maybe a right knee pad



Photos of Dodge the Lemons Slideshow Add Photo
Nick catching a rest in the eye of the storm, the kneebar rest in the middle of the boulder problems...
Nick catching a rest in the eye of the storm, the ...
Jay Knower taking lessons from nature: How to hang upside-down from a piece of cold rock.
Jay Knower taking lessons from nature: How to hang...
Jay Knower making the move to the tooth.
Jay Knower making the move to the tooth.
The Jays climbing away on the coldest day thus far Winter 07-08
The Jays climbing away on the coldest day thus far...
Nick crushing it...
Nick crushing it...
nick at the top of the bouldering section and heading in to the corner...
nick at the top of the bouldering section and head...
Jay conway in the corner above the business
Jay conway in the corner above the business
The puff brigade getting excited for another go on Dodge The Lemons.
The puff brigade getting excited for another go on...
Nick sticks the crux of Dodge the Lemons
Nick sticks the crux of Dodge the Lemons
Jay conway in the corner emile on belay
Jay conway in the corner emile on belay
Comments on Dodge the Lemons Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -