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Doctor of Thinkology 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Lara Wilkinson
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Boodge Nomchompski on Aug 26, 2009
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Martin deploying the super-secret mega beta.

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Insanely hard, sharp start with lousy feet into some longer reaches and lots of sharp side-pulling. Sustained.
The book calls this 11-. My partner and I felt it was a full number grade harder than Ruby Slippers.


Left of "If Only I Had A Brain"



Photos of Doctor of Thinkology Slideshow Add Photo
Elisa clipping the second bolt.
Elisa clipping the second bolt.
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 26, 2009

I think the name of this route is actually Professor of Stinkology due to the dubious circumstances used to create it. It is pretty stout. I didn't get a chance to climb it before the book was published or this is the name that would appear in the book.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 27, 2009

What's up with the manufactured hold at the bottom?!??

By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

After a long time trying to figure out the start, we finally worked our way up. Crux is at the bottom, before the first bolt, followed by pretty cruiser moves the rest of the way.

overall rating: meh...

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I personally found this route to be rather enjoyable. I barely used the dubious undercling and believe it could be done with a much worse hold. While the climb eases significantly after the first bolt it is not entirely trivial.

A stick clip is recommended for the first bolt as the climbing is challenging and small tree stumps and roots are at the base.