|Monsters from the Id
The farthest right route at Monsters, Doctor No is the hideously steep roof characterized by crimpy, powerful moves. Is a popular project for boulders due to its short length- I have heard it referred to as a 'bolter problem'. Stick clip the first bolt and crank through the super crimpy initial V6ish boulder problem right off the ground. Sneaky use of a dropknee is quite useful here. After a few bouldery moves, a 'rest jug' is encountered, though many may argue how restful it actually is due to is size. After a short rest comes the crux: a big powerful move that requires superior body tension and excellent overall upper body fitness. Not super technical- just powerful. For those fit enough to fire the crux, the topout is not to be missed.
The moves are intuitive and fun- it's not uncommon to see someone on Doctor No who is climbing way above their level just for the fun of it.
Is now generally considered soft for its original grade (5.14a/8b+) and has been downgraded to 5.13d/8b.
The farthest right route at Monsters from the Id. Look for the super steep roof just right of the corner of Triskaidekaphobia.