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Routes in Monsters from the Id
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Abominable Snowman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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All Day Slacker S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Boogieman, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cosmic Monsters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Doctor No S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Feeding Frenzy S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Heavenly Monsters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Journey to a Mushroom Planet T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Little Demon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Monster Crossing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Parallel Universe S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Source of Madness S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Steady Slobbin' S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Stone Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Triskaidekaphobia S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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White Zombie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | Dave Graham, equipped by Ward Smith |
| Page Views: | 3,549 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | James Otey on May 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
The farthest right route at Monsters, Doctor No is the hideously steep roof characterized by crimpy, powerful moves. Is a popular project for boulders due to its short length- I have heard it referred to as a 'bolter problem'. Stick clip the first bolt and crank through the super crimpy initial V6ish boulder problem right off the ground. Sneaky use of a dropknee is quite useful here. After a few bouldery moves, a 'rest jug' is encountered, though many may argue how restful it actually is due to is size. After a short rest comes the crux: a big powerful move that requires superior body tension and excellent overall upper body fitness. Not super technical- just powerful. For those fit enough to fire the crux, the topout is not to be missed.
The moves are intuitive and fun- it's not uncommon to see someone on Doctor No who is climbing way above their level just for the fun of it.
Is now generally considered soft for its original grade (5.14a/8b+) and has been downgraded to 5.13d/8b.
The moves are intuitive and fun- it's not uncommon to see someone on Doctor No who is climbing way above their level just for the fun of it.
Is now generally considered soft for its original grade (5.14a/8b+) and has been downgraded to 5.13d/8b.
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