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The Andromeda Sprain Wall
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Andromeda Sprain T 
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Doctor Hook 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 742
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on May 12, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: the crux, hence the "dr. hook"

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Description 

Climb the low angled choss to the first bolt. Rest, and then fire up the steep face following large positive pockets. Pull over the roof on the rail systems and clip the anchors. Though short, this route is very fun and power packed.

Climbing past the anchor and three more bolts makes this a 5.12 outing. It may or may not have anchors, though, because the ones that were there have been chopped.

Location 

This route starts about 30 feet right of Andromeda Sprain on the steep bolted face.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with permanent biners. DO NOT TAKE THESE.


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By Jer Collins
May 23, 2007

"Doctor Hook-Walk"

One way to make this route even "funner" is to keep climbing past the anchors, clipping the bolts of the extension, and step over midway up "Andromeda Sprain". Place some good gear here, or you are looking at a very serious ground fall.

Step out onto the left face and clip the first bolt of "Where the Sidewalk Ends". Follow this route till it's last bolt and lower off...For some reason there has never been anchors on this superb line. Another option is to pre-rig anchors dangling over the lip from the tree. This makes for an 85-90 foot sustained climb.
By Jer Collins
Oct 8, 2007

this link up now has anchors(at the top of Where The Sidewalk Ends)