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A fun warm-up with a few good moves. Work the jugs low, ignore all the marginal holds, set your feet hight and move up to a hidden 2 finger pocket with your right hand, makes clipping the second bolt easy. Set a foot into the jug and stand up bumping to marginal balance holds and look for another two finger pocket, its sharp so just skip it because on the rail directly above it is the better full on jug. Step up to some easy 5.5 face to the chains. Be sure to get total value from the climb at the finish. Use the good pocket to set your feet high and reach up to the rail above and 15 inches right of the chains for the better clipping hold.
Second route from the right.
Bolt and chains
|By Craig Childre|
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 14, 2011
Update: A new hold has been unearthed! A new left slanting rail has been either broken or was chipped just left of the 2nd bolt, either way this route's crux move has been compromised. You can now bump to this rail, and possibly clip from it, but the two finger pocket above is so much better.