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Tombstone Wall
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Daisy If You Do 
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Doc 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 151
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008
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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun warm-up with a few good moves. Work the jugs low, ignore all the marginal holds, set your feet hight and move up to a hidden 2 finger pocket with your right hand, makes clipping the second bolt easy. Set a foot into the jug and stand up bumping to marginal balance holds and look for another two finger pocket, its sharp so just skip it because on the rail directly above it is the better full on jug. Step up to some easy 5.5 face to the chains. Be sure to get total value from the climb at the finish. Use the good pocket to set your feet high and reach up to the rail above and 15 inches right of the chains for the better clipping hold.


Location 

Second route from the right.


Protection 

Bolt and chains



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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 14, 2011

Update: A new hold has been unearthed! A new left slanting rail has been either broken or was chipped just left of the 2nd bolt, either way this route's crux move has been compromised. You can now bump to this rail, and possibly clip from it, but the two finger pocket above is so much better.