Do you really need a fancy haul device?
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I'm surprised this hasn't been covered directly...I didn't see it on MP. |
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Haven't done any walls, but i've practiced hauling like that. Works fine. You can rig a 2:1 this way using a "ratchet" setup (2 extra pulleys and an extra length of cord), but if you need to do a 3:1 you'll need another ascender and 2 more pulleys or one combo device and 1 pulley. |
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Hey Aaron, yeah you can do that but its all about time and ease with the haulers vs the pulley jumar thing. I also do a "space haul" most of the time (tie in with like 20 ft of rope and let gravity and momentum do the work) and use both jugs to get back up the rope and repeat. just my thoughts... |
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aaron hope wrote:I'm surprised this hasn't been covered directly...I didn't see it on MP. Why spend the dough on a mini or protraxion, wall hauler, etc? I'm new to big wall climbing, but it seems to me that you can set up a 1:1 system with two ascenders (which you already have) and a $20 pulley. Maybe doing it this way is more complicated, dangerous, time-consuming than I realize?Yes, you do need a fancy device. If you do a wall of any length, you will want something that is simple, efficient, and effective. I'd choose the protraxion. After sketching your way up a terrifying aid pitch on the third day of your harrowing ascent of El Cap, the last thing you want to do is mess with a jingus, cheap, haul set up. It's better to make hauling as easy and simple as possible, because it's the most taxing part of climbing big walls. |
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You can do it, and you should be comfortable enough with gear and rigging to do it quickly. But two ascenders take up more space in the system, they aren't quite as efficient (the upside down ascender can shift around, wasting motion), you can't get the bag quite as close to the anchor point as with a wall hauler and set up time is a little longer. None of this makes a significant difference on one pitch, but by the time you get to pitch #30 or so of the Nose the time and effort saved with a wall hauler might start to look more significant. |
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Jay Knower wrote: After sketching your way up a terrifying aid pitch on the third day of your harrowing ascent of El Cap, the last thing you want to do is mess with a jingus, cheap, haul set up. It's better to make hauling as easy and simple as possible, because it's the most taxing part of climbing big walls.Jay - you hit my concern right on the Nose (lame pun intended). Bottom line: it sounds like an ascender set-up works, but I'll hate my cheap a$$ self after 30 pitches. Kurt - Good point about space hauling also...I'll need the jugs...Thanks! |
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Hey Aaron, |
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The simple solution is to get a large diameter pulley and use your body as a counter-weight. There's no need to waste a bunch of your $! |
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omg, definitely go with a specialized hauling device if you plan on doing big walls. i didn't read any of the other members responses, however, i'm sure they covered the versatility, convenience, and improvisational advantages of incorporating a specialized device into your system. |
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No. |
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or get a prusik minding pulley: |
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Bonus of not having a fancy pulley is a fatter wallet and a lighter load to haul during your leads. |
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You will need to buy an expensive pulley if you are hauling grade VI loads. A small diameter pulley will seriously diminish your hauling efficiency. You could probably get a used protrax or wall hauler for the same price as a nice pulley. |
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Sirius wrote:Bonus of not having a fancy pulley is a fatter walletwhen it comes to the safety of you and your party, fork out the dough and go big. climbing is the last thing you should cut corners on IMO. however, if money is tight, i suggest a college degree |
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Spyder wrote: however, if money is tight, i suggest a college degreereally?? forbes.com/2010/12/16/educa… |
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students need to be realistic about their educational pursuits. for example, if you love pottery, for god's sake, don't get a BA in it. have a backup plan! furthermore, the mushroom effect of "for profit" colleges and the roll they play indebting our nations youth is to blame perhaps too, but not solely. students needs to READ and UNDERSTAND the terms of their repayment terms and obligations. |
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Spyder wrote: i don't know ONE person, carrying a practical degree, from an accredited institution of learning, that is unemployed, or otherwise harmed or burdened by their education.don't get out much then? |
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No. You do not need and should not purchase a specialized wall hauling device. |
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Yarp wrote: don't get out much then?maybe he knows more than just the one |
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jack roberts wrote:No. A large diameter wheel pulley and a set of ascenders does the job just as well and it is safer. Anything else is just burning money.I think it can do it better. Most wall haulers have a pathetically small shieve which makes life much harder than it needs to be. I used to be a believer in the Protraxion until I found a better way. Do your homework, there is lot's of good info out there but mostly just opinions on this site. BTW the key factor in setting up a let's call it "old school" hauler is getting the inverted cam at the proper distance and orientation from the pulley. Also, don't skimp on the shieve...get a good one , the bigger the better. |