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Do women like to climb chimneys?
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By Buff Johnson
Oct 9, 2009
smiley face
Marc-Andre wrote:
i feel like a human jumar!


That is totally me

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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Oct 9, 2009
Growing a winter coat in Red Rock Canyon- December 2013.
deniseb wrote:
I am short and will echo what someone else said - you can always find a move, just take it inch by inch.


Maybe that's my problem. I'm too impatient, and expect to get up it fast, especially when we have 8 or so more pitches of climbing to go. I end up feeling pretty sloppy, scraped up, and spent in the chimneys, especially if they are sustained, exerting way too much energy. Looking back, I think I prefer leading 5.6, 5.7ish rotten, run-out crack, and face in Red Rock than say, following up a 5.8/5.9 old school Joe Herbst chimney or offwidth pitch on a route. I guess I should do some laps following sustained, single pitch chimney, and offwidth routes (5.8, and above) especially in different areas to practice. I don't seem to have much trouble at the 5.7, and below range of offwidths, and chimneys on the routes we've climbed, at times of the year when I start climbing more consistantly. A lot to think about. : )

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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Oct 9, 2009
Belay
That has always been my problem. I rarely have the patience to want to spend 45 minutes on a single miserable pitch.

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Oct 10, 2009
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
EMT wrote:
Wendy, Epi is the best least chimney intensive chimney you'll ever find.... I climbed it with a sport climber who thought a chicken wing was something you ate not something you did with your body, and we had a blast!


I second this. Epinephrine is actually a fun chimney with no groveling.

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By Aimee Bates
Oct 10, 2009
Gripped...
Wendy Laakmann wrote:
Are there really women out there that enjoy chimneys and don't get their booties stuck in them? Wendy


Embrace the booty jam!!

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By Wendy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Oct 11, 2009
On top of Castleton.. with the Rectory and Sister Superior behind.
What a range of responses! I'm feeling not so alone, which is nice.

I've never thought about the fact that I feel rushed on chimney's, usually because they are an unavoidable part of a longer route and I feel the pressure to keep moving. Somehow I always exhaust myself in them.

And unfortunately I've shown many a time that chimney's aren't as secure as everyone thinks, so that doesn't help my mental state.

Gigi, I too sound like a sailor in most chimney's. Don't know where it comes from, or why it comes pouring out of me, but it does!

Which is why, in a nutshell, I'm not too psyched for Epinephrine....smile.

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By Wendy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Apr 25, 2013
On top of Castleton.. with the Rectory and Sister Superior behind.
Tomorrow we climb the Mace in Sedonna. I'm NOT psyched and just looked this thread up for support. Sigh.

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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 25, 2013
modern man
Wendy Laakmann wrote:
Tomorrow we climb the Mace in Sedonna. I'm NOT psyched and just looked this thread up for support. Sigh.


cut HIM off!

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By Aimee Rose
From Bend, or
Apr 25, 2013
The crux.  Photo by Nathan Gerhardt
Get psyched! It is so fun and the chimney is really just a small bit of it. Also, it is by no means a squeeze chimney! You'll be fine. It's one of the most unique summits with the lean across move.

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By Eric Krantz
From Black Hills
Apr 26, 2013
smoke break, pitch 5 or 6 (or 7??) of Dark Shadows
My partner LOVES the squeeze chimneys and offwidths. Can't get enough. She revels, rocks, and cranks it (squirms it??). I'm OK with it, as long as she's leading (which is 75% of the time), and I'll follow her anywhere. I have to admit, sometimes on the offwidths I pull on her gear.

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By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From Forchheim, Germany
Apr 26, 2013
I couldn't resist uploading this cool silhouette my friend Aran took of me on Panische Zeiten.
My fiancee hates them! We bailed off of Epinephrine when I told her "c'mon, just two more pitches of chimney, then beautiful climbing above..."

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By rockratrei
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 26, 2013
rockratrei
I love squeeze chimneys and chimneys in general - EXCEPT FLARING BOMBAY! At 5' 0" sometimes I cannot span the chimney and end up
climbing the features on one side or the other. In OW - I generally
become the cam and feel very comfy like on the FOX in Red Rock!

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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Apr 26, 2013
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim
Go climb Epinephrine! It's not squeeze and it's one of my favorite RR routes at the grade. P2 of Black Widow Hollow or P1 of the Warrior, now that's squeeze.

For me it's not the booty that gets stuck it's my um, chest area. Over the past few years I have been seeking out wide climbs to lead, which I admit can be type II fun at times, but are fun none the less. I finally talked someone into doing Honeymoon Chimney a few weekends ago under the condition that I would lead the first pitch. Having a smaller frame helped in that the OW turned into squeeze.

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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Apr 26, 2013
The route in it's entirety.
My wonderful lady loves chimney's as they require patience, and full body technique to climb efficient. Appreciate the full experience, and don't get to sucked into the moment when things get tough.

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By slim
Administrator
Apr 26, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i think the key is to NOT try to climb fast - it just leads to thrashing. it's kind of like doing a really long run or bike ride, you don't want to sprint. pace yourself and try to rest between pieces of effort,.

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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Apr 26, 2013
Our less than official sponsor!
Wendy Laakmann wrote:
...get their booties stuck in them? Wendy


I laughed my head off when the owner of my LCS pointed out a picture of a well endowed woman climbing an OW in a a magazine and said, "Look! She's using 'Mamolots' for pro!" All the guys died laughing and the girls struggled to get the joke.

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By KateC
Apr 26, 2013
Deep water solo'ing in Thailand.
Christian "crisco" Burrell wrote:
"Look! She's using 'Mamolots' for pro!" All the guys died laughing and the girls struggled to get the joke.


No, they got the joke. They just put you down as idiots and went on with their lives.

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By SMR
Apr 26, 2013
KateC wrote:
No, they got the joke. They just put you down as idiots and went on with their lives.


++1

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 27, 2013
Had a friend with me in tahoe who had to borrow shoes that were 1 size too small and climbed a 5.8 chimney. She was crying from the pain of the shoes but enjoyed the chimney, and even thought it was a really cool climb.

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By Alex Washburne
Apr 27, 2013
I eat crack for breakfast.
I'm a stubborn scientist, so I won't form my opinion until I see a well-controlled survey of males and females with standard questions and careful statistical analysis. That said, I feel like I have met a disproportionate number of girls who are psyched for offwidths and chimneys. My guy friends reliably shudder at the thought, but my gal friends say two words: "Pamela Pack!!" and then fight their way up the chasm. That lady is an inspiration!!!

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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Apr 27, 2013
My gf loves chimneys. Granted she hasn't done any seriously painful OWs. I taught her the backpack to sling trick before the first pitch where I thought it would be useful. She deploys it when needed and in general is way into any climb with chimney pitches.
Slab, not so much.

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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Apr 28, 2013
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gates <br />(i.e. 10 pitches to the tram station)
I climbed the N Chimney of Castleton years ago with a gal. I all of my years I have never heard such sensual grunting while climbing in my life. She could have put a porn star to shame. By the time she finished the chimney she was flush and all sweaty. I needed a cigarette. I am not sure if she enjoyed the chimney but I sure did!!!!

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By Josh Cameron
From Moab, Colorado
May 1, 2013
Castleton Summit Sunset
My wife and I loves chimneys! Don't know what we'd do without them. How else would Santa get presents to our kid?

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By Christina Freschl
From Berkeley, California
May 1, 2013
Nutcracker
Knee pads, knee pads, knee pads! The are a girl's best friend in the chasms:)

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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
May 1, 2013
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard


'nuff said, eh?


pamelashantipack.com/

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