Do Or Fly 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Chris Falkenstein, Bob Finn |
| Submitted By: | Art Morimitsu on Mar 2, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Do or Fly on Puppy Dome.
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Description A right leaning crack to a roof.
The crux comes right off the ground, a flaring hand crack with lieback moves to establish yourself in a better section of 5.10 hands, a long sustained series of moves before the crack narrow down to a finger crack and a 5.11a roof. There is a back breaking boulder/flake directly below the start of the route, I recommend you be solid at the grade.
Location On the far side of the dome left most route on the overhanging face.
Protection Gear to 2" Anchors
That thing was pumper back in the day..... Me in ...
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Do Or Fly
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By peachy spohn
Sep 4, 2008
| To protect the beginning/crux you can place a #5 metolious or equivalent blindly with the right hand and then move into the lefthand crimp and right hand jam. |
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jun 29, 2010
| With small gear and a blue C4 (memory is bad in my old age, but I'm 90% sure that its the blue C4; is correct) at the crux, the beginning isn't that bad to protect and the crux is short (I'm 100% sure on that). When I first tried it years ago, I was only getting close to the grade and thought it was reasonable. |
By -robin-
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c
| The roof can be protected by a #10 nut, slot it in the crack and then pull through the roof, my favorite nut placement ever.. Great route, thanks Falkey! |
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