Do or Fly
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A right leaning crack to a roof.
The crux comes right off the ground, a flaring hand crack with lieback moves to establish yourself in a better section of 5.10 hands, a long sustained series of moves before the crack narrow down to a finger crack and a 5.11a roof. There is a back breaking boulder/flake directly below the start of the route, I recommend you be solid at the grade.
On the far side of the dome left most route on the overhanging face.
Gear to 2" Anchors
That thing was pumper back in the day..... Me in ...
Do Or Fly
|By peachy spohn|
Sep 4, 2008
To protect the beginning/crux you can place a #5 metolious or equivalent blindly with the right hand and then move into the lefthand crimp and right hand jam.
|By chuck claude|
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jun 29, 2010
With small gear and a blue C4 (memory is bad in my old age, but I'm 90% sure that its the blue C4; is correct) at the crux, the beginning isn't that bad to protect and the crux is short (I'm 100% sure on that). When I first tried it years ago, I was only getting close to the grade and thought it was reasonable.
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
The roof can be protected by a #10 nut, slot it in the crack and then pull through the roof, my favorite nut placement ever.. Great route, thanks Falkey!
|By Neil Rankin|
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Even though this gets a lesser grade than Horseshoes and Hand Grenades, it's a harder, more serious redpoint / onsight. It can be toproped avoiding the bottom bulge, but this would be unprotected on the lead.