A right leaning crack to a roof.
The crux comes right off the ground, a flaring hand crack with lieback moves to establish yourself in a better section of 5.10 hands, a long sustained series of moves before the crack narrow down to a finger crack and a 5.11a roof. There is a back breaking boulder/flake directly below the start of the route, I recommend you be solid at the grade.
On the far side of the dome left most route on the overhanging face.
Gear to 2" Anchors
|By peachy spohn|
Sep 4, 2008
To protect the beginning/crux you can place a #5 metolious or equivalent blindly with the right hand and then move into the lefthand crimp and right hand jam.
|By chuck claude|
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jun 29, 2010
With small gear and a blue C4 (memory is bad in my old age, but I'm 90% sure that its the blue C4; is correct) at the crux, the beginning isn't that bad to protect and the crux is short (I'm 100% sure on that). When I first tried it years ago, I was only getting close to the grade and thought it was reasonable.
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The roof can be protected by a #10 nut, slot it in the crack and then pull through the roof, my favorite nut placement ever.. Great route, thanks Falkey!
|By Neil Rankin|
From: Greensboro, NC
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Even though this gets a lesser grade than Horseshoes and Hand Grenades, it's a harder, more serious redpoint / onsight. It can be toproped avoiding the bottom bulge, but this would be unprotected on the lead.