|Rock Springs Buttress
Awesome new addition up the main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. After the first easy pitch, the climbing is characterized by steep (vertical to slightly overhanging) climbing on excellent stone with thoughtful cruxes. The cruxes are brief, but the steep nature keeps you working.
- P1 (5.8) The first bolt is about 30' up on a headwall left of an obvious corner. Follow the line of bolts up (it goes way right at one point in time) to the fixed anchor (30m)
- P2 (10a/b) Awesome stemming up the dihedral leads to a step right onto an arete. Continue up to the fixed anchors (25m)
- P3 (10b) Cool moves up a right facing corner, lead to an undercling and then a steep and challenging headwall. Hanging Belay. Short Pitch (15-20m)
- P4 (10b/c) More awesome, steep edging up the headwall (25m)
The climb begins about 100' climber's right of the Exum Arete, down the loose trail at the base. An old piton is about 5' off the ground (great for hanging packs) and is right below the first bolt (30' up).
Fully bolted. Anchors rigged for rappel, but they are a little funky. One bolt has a chain and the other bolt has a carabiner.
We rapped the route, but getting to the belay on top of P1 is difficult, as the rap puts you 10' out in space. (Tie knots!) Next time I'll clip the bolts during the rap as directionals, and then have the second person clean them.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jul 3, 2009
Climbed it again. The grades I posted above still seem about right... If you bring alot of draws (maybe 20?) you can link the last two pitches and avoid a hanging belay. It'll be about a 40-50m long, engaging, and pumpy pitch.
From: Jackson, WY
Aug 20, 2009
Sounds like the top of pitch one can be confusing for some folks. Don't get suckered over to Grand Central on the right. After the piton towards the top of P1, head up and left to a bolt and a small bulge. Belay at a small ledge with bolts and chain/ biners. From the belay you will see a bolt not too far to the right, heading into a gray dihedral, that is pitch two. You can see the pitch two dihedral from the ground, scope it out before heading up. Awesome route!!
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Sep 2, 2011
The "piton about 5 feet off the ground" seems to be AWOL at this point. Hung packs using a finger size cam instead.
From: Jackson, WY
May 10, 2012
Really fun climb.
Descent: With a 70m rope you can just reach the anchors at the top of pitch 2 from the top of pitch 4. And as of yesterday (5/10/2012) there is a fixed rope from the top of pitch 2 to the ground, so you can avoid the tricky rappel to the top of pitch 1. Very quick and easy descent right now.
|By Charlie Jonas|
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Jul 3, 2013
Be aware there is a bolted variation at the start of the third pitch. This variation goes straight up from the anchor at the top of the second pitch, while 'do it for doug' route continues on the face to the right of the ledge.
I tried to climb this route for the first time a couple weeks ago and ended up on this variation pitch by accident. Anybody have any additional info about this variation? I turned around after the third bolt after it became apparent I was no longer on a 10c route (first 3 bolts felt like a solid 11).
|By Gee Double|
Jun 14, 2014
3rd pitch var; "Wish You Were Here" 5.11b ** (K.Miller memorial route)
3rd pitch left var: "Bolt it G" AKA Bolt it for Doug: 5.11d (r) * trad; med stoppers, finger size cams.
Do it For Doug: Please leave anchor hardware in place. Caution; many, small, galvanized bolts...
|By Jeff Witt|
Jul 15, 2014
Psyched to finally get on the route, and found it interesting and engaged as supported by its reputation. Well protected, sustained climbing at the grade. And yes, linking 3&4 makes for a long and thoughtful pitch. A couple notes; 1) It seems like the route sees a fair bit of traffic, and that being the case perhaps it would be worth improving the anchors a bit. I figure 1/2 a dozen large (3/8"?) quick-links, some short pieces of chain and perhaps a few large welded rings could help standardize the anchors with a central master rappel/belay point. Case in point, one of the raps is now missing a biner as it was confused for part of our belay anchor and mistakenly taken by my partner... 2) I noticed a set of rings to the climbers right of the anchor for the top of P.1 - would that help facilitate the rappel down from the top of P.2? and 3) it looks like a potential 5th pitch could go straight up from the last belay to meet the top out of Chuck's Road to Thailand at the top of the buttress - thoughts anyone?
|By Daniel Nelson|
From: Jackson, WY
20 hours ago
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great route. Fantastic exposure, movement, rock quality. Definitely think at least 10c for the upper pitches; holds/sequence not obvious and very sustained. I wouldn't send anyone less than a comfortable 5.11 leader up this for their first go at it.
Rapping to the anchors above the first pitch is sketchy as mentioned. Required a swing and clipping a draw through a bolt to pull on to finally get me over to the anchor. A block or prussik of some kind is recommended.