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Do I need more rack????
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By freddy burg
Aug 31, 2010

hears my rack its all C4 and I got double in everything to .75 and quads in 1s 2s and 3s also got a a 4 5 and 6. And a set of stoppers. (All BD) Anyway I hear alot of mixed reviews on bd cams and I have never even thought of checking any other brands or models or whatever. I don't get pro deal anymore so im open to any new pro out there. Alot of people at the creek and moab country seem to have those omega cams? I know there heavy but are they worth the cash and the carry? And metolus there so many different models? Any useful suggestion for rack additions would be appreciated. forgot to mention I've got all the passive pro to just dont use it ever. Also what's bad about C4 or negative?

on top of the spearhead 1000 ft trad.
on top of the spearhead 1000 ft trad.


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By John Farrell
From Phoenix, AZ
Aug 31, 2010
Chilling on Moby Dick, Cochise Stronghold.

For my doubling up, I do prefer Omega Pacific's Link Cams. I carry the full line of them now and really like them, the weight doesn't bother me. I am not really doubled up anymore on the stuff under #0.5 anymore. It's just a hodgepodge mess of Aliens, Master Cams, and TCU's now.

What I started doing for my "base rack" is keeping a log of what I placed on my routes on each climb, even ones I repeated. I started seeing a pattern on what I favored and what I never set. As a result, I don't carry any more hexes, only one tricam, and two sets of nuts now. Of course, I throw on extra pieces here and there depending on the route, or remove other pieces, etc. But I have found that "logging" what I tend to use was pretty invaluable.

All in all though, I feel it just boils down to the fact a person will adjust their rack to how and what they climb. The items on a rack always seem to be a personal work in progress. For example, I don't like tricams very much, I am sure there will be people that swear by them. They have their place, I just don't climb much in that place. If what you have now gets you safely up and down, then it's adequate.

Adding to my anal retentive log of climbs, I'll email you my spread sheet that I keep for my trad rack inventory, so you can see how I build my rack now. Damn my analytical mind!

John...


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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Aug 31, 2010
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

Hey Freddy,
I posted up my tastes recently, and it seems that its all a preference. I love my Metolius power cams and tcus, and I am not a fan of black diamond cams. its all a feeling. all of the cams are going to hold a fall, just get your hands on some cams and squeeze the triggers, get a feel for it. With you owning so many cams, maybe post up for a trade if you want a new style of cams.
Have you ever not been satisfied with placing pro on a climb? If your system isn't broken, why fix it?
Cheers


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By Francisco Di Poi
From Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2010

could you e-mail me that spreadsheet also. I am interested to see an example of how you log the climbs you have done and the gear you use

my e-mail is franciscodipoi@hotmail.com

thank you


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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Aug 31, 2010
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

you know, if you could put that spreadsheet in this forum, i bet a lot of people would look at it. otherwise, id love to see it too.


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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Aug 31, 2010
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck

With a few exceptions (see below), everybody needs more rack!


Good Golly, miss Dolly
Good Golly, miss Dolly


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 31, 2010
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

YDPL8S wrote:
With a few exceptions (see below), everybody needs more rack!


Every rack needs less moiré.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Aug 31, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

I'm a sucker for sales. If I see a good cam for cheapo price, I add it to the rack. Up to 56 cams or so by now, of various brands and sizes. Got 2 for 15 bucks one day in Miguels parking lot for gas money someone needed home.


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By John Farrell
From Phoenix, AZ
Aug 31, 2010
Chilling on Moby Dick, Cochise Stronghold.

Josh Olson wrote:
you know, if you could put that spreadsheet in this forum, i bet a lot of people would look at it. otherwise, id love to see it too.


Just email me your email address and I'll email it to you. :-)


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Nov 5, 2010

i will just chime in that i have seen more peices of omegas links cams than any other kind, that being said i dont think they are even close to the most popular kind of cam on the market. need less to say i wont ever by them, just my two cents. it is a cool looking peice of crap though


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By Jon H
From Boulder
Nov 5, 2010
At the matching crux

I would skip the Link Cams... they're double the price and double the weight of most standard cams. They also can't be placed in pods, off-axis, or in any manner of settings which can torque the inner bearings because they'll break and you'll die.

Here's a more important question... you already have more gear than most people, so how are you limited by your current rack? Or in other words, have you been shut down on any climbs because you were unable to protect them? If the answer is no, save your money - you don't need anything else.


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2010
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

You don't need more rack, you just might want variety.
For larger cams, this is a matter of personal preference and for anything but Indian Creek (or equiv) you are just fine.
For smaller cams, the "wide" designs (long axles) of the BD camalots limits their placement opportunities. This may be even more important to you than some others if you are not a big fan of passive protection and thus not accustomed to funky placements of it- preferfing to place cams instead. The outer lobes on camalots are so far apart that they don't place well in flares or pods, or can't fit in at all. I think having one run of TCU's or narrower cams (like aliens or mastercams) is a very good idea. You can probably arrange a trade for some master cams and come out even cash value for cash value, focusing on the smallest sizes. Aliens seem to be at a premium right now, however.
I don't have anything nice to say about C3's.


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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Nov 5, 2010
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan

freddy burg wrote:
hears my rack its all C4 and I got double in everything to .75 and quads in 1s 2s and 3s also got a a 4 5 and 6. And a set of stoppers. (All BD) Anyway I hear alot of mixed reviews on bd cams and I have never even thought of checking any other brands or models or whatever. I don't get pro deal anymore so im open to any new pro out there. Alot of people at the creek and moab country seem to have those omega cams? I know there heavy but are they worth the cash and the carry? And metolus there so many different models? Any useful suggestion for rack additions would be appreciated. forgot to mention I've got all the passive pro to just dont use it ever. Also what's bad about C4 or negative?


Dude thats plenty! At most some small metolius to diversify your finger sized but if you need more than doubles on ANYTHING on the front range, I would like to hear about it.


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By George Heib
Nov 5, 2010
Holding up a lovely BD #4

C4 wise I think you are fine, but make sure you don't do anything smaller than C4s that would require some C3s...I personally doubled up on those as well. I would recommend looking into the CAMP tricams. I always use the phrase, "when in doubt, tricam it out." When cam just doesn't look right, a tricam will always fit and will fit in more locations than any pro out there, passive or active. I personally doubled up on the sets and then got singles up to 3 and down to .25 .


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By cpom88
From Thunder Bay, Ontario
Nov 8, 2010

You've got loads of cams!!! My suggestion, learn to better use your passive and save some weight/expense.


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