DMM walnuts way better than BD stoppers?
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Hey people, |
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I greatly prefer my wall nuts to my stoppers. |
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yes definitely get wallnuts, look into gettign some brassies too i used them in a pebbley uneven crack, im also liking bd c3s more and more. |
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I certainly prefer the wallnuts to stoppers. The carve out in the middle definitely increases placement options. The only real negative is that it makes them marginally harder to clean sometimes. I find myself using a nut tool slightly more often with wallnuts, as the rip upward thing doesn't work as much. |
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Thanks for the advice. What brassies would you reccomend? Was thinking DMM I.MP's? |
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DMM, i dont go below 6 kn size cos i dont aide per say (well i do pull on gear sometimes and place above my head most of the time if you consider it aiding :)) they are pricey and hard to clean sometimes but surely eat into the rock with the metal being softer. I have also seen "lead Heads" i think they are even softer. im my opinion its better to lose a nut than a cam , cheaper , but in a pinch if you have a bomber nut placement is what counts. When you tug on them to set them just be considerate of how soft they are. |
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climb like you've got brass nutts! |
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DMM nuts are the snizell for all shapes and sizes. Yes, perhaps a tad harder to clean so have your partner get one of those Wild Country nut tools with the coiled leash. They can just let it dangle when following. Otherwise, they will torque the piss out of your wires. |
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depends on what yr used to and what rock you climb ... i use wallnuts and offsets myself, but i know way better climbers than i who swear by BD stoppers ... |
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Jason, |
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I like the Frost Sentinel nuts myself. |
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Hey Randy, |
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DMM offsets blow them all out of the water!!! |
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That sounds about right. If you are planning a trip to the US in the future its still cheaper to buy gear here on sale and mail it to your homeland. Best of luck! |
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Metolius curve nuts (actually straight down the taper and curved the other direction) have a very special feature that they always have the same "set" friction due to their straight taper and are very easy to place, yet are extremely stable due to their three point contact like a normal bd nut. I believe this to be the ideal nut design, not many people give them enough consideration. |
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With a set of offsets already and BDs, you don't really need wallnuts. If you want them, sell your BDs and buy some. Not needed, though. I do like my wallnuts, offsets (set minus the two largest) and peenuts, though. |
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Still have my Chouinard stoppers I bought in 1975, have the curved ones as well. |
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Brits place about a billion times the amount of nuts as most Americans I've climbed with. It makes sense that they'd make the best passive pro. |
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Keep the opinions coming people! Would also like some brass nut advice? |
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Ryan Williams wrote:Brits place about a billion times the amount of nuts as most Americans I've climbed with. It makes sense that they'd make the best passive pro. I don't leave the ground here (UK) w/o a full set of Wallnuts and a full set of DMM Offsets. Different climbing areas warrant different racks, but I pretty much always have at least 16 or so stoppers from DMM and usually more.That's really true. Limeys love nuts. Almost annoyingly so. |
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Indeed, I've had many a discussion with my US trained mates about putting 5 wires at a time on a biner. I usually pre-quickdraw my wires because I know I'm going to use them first before the cams, that way they're ready to go and I don't have to do the sizing fumble thingy with the prospect of dropping 5 wires instead of just one. |