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dmm Torque hex?
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Apr 2, 2011
on p13 or so of zodiac
i was curious if anyone has given these a test run, im thinking about buying a set but cant find anywhere to get my hands on them aside from ordering. that look really solid and the expendable sling it perfect. but like i said i could be wrong does anyone have any experience with them?
dmm torque nut/hex
dmm torque nut/hex
Jaysen Henderson
From Bronx NY
Joined Dec 12, 2010
351 points
Apr 2, 2011
  • I have NEVER placed these.* That being said I've seen them in the real world and touched them. They're small and look and feel like toys. They just don't inspire me with the confidence that other hexes do. That and you only get four for a pretty hefty price. To each their own I guess but I'd probably rather spend my money on a cam or a tricam.
Wannabe
Joined Nov 22, 2010
144 points
Apr 2, 2011
Buenos Dias!
Wannabe wrote:
*...but I'd probably rather spend my money on a cam or a tricam.


Except that cams and Tri-cams don't always work where a hex will.
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Apr 2, 2011
Crux Move
jaysen wrote:
i was curious if anyone has given these a test run, im thinking about buying a set but cant find anywhere to get my hands on them aside from ordering. that look really solid and the expendable sling it perfect. but like i said i could be wrong does anyone have any experience with them?


man those hexes look really cool. what do you mean by expendable sling, though?
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Apr 2, 2011
San Rafael Swell
I have been climbing on these for about a year and love them. When placed properly they are the bomb. Thinking about getting another set to add to my rack. Place and more than happy to fall on. My .02 Joey Faust
From Pocatello,ID
Joined Feb 1, 2006
293 points
Apr 2, 2011
i dont have them but have used my friends. They are the best hexes i have used and they are seriously bomber. The EXTENDABLE slings are great as well mongoose
Joined May 23, 2010
0 points
Apr 2, 2011
on p13 or so of zodiac
Phil Lauffen wrote:
man those hexes look really cool. what do you mean by expendable sling, though?

haha oah i meant extendable my bad, but the sling is run through so you can pluck one strand and double its length, similar to the dragon cams.
Jaysen Henderson
From Bronx NY
Joined Dec 12, 2010
351 points
Apr 5, 2011
I have a double set of these and use the first 3 (red yellow green) all the time in the rockies.
They are cheaper than cams, even more bomber in a good placement and easy to beat in and out of frozen/dirty cracks. Aside from sounding stupid while walking, they are a great bit of kit.

The extendable sling IS long enough in most cases to avoid clipping a draw. Unlike the dragon cams
Syndicate
Joined Nov 17, 2009
0 points
Apr 6, 2011
I've been using them for two years now and really like them. I was climbing a really wandering pitch about a month ago, ran out of 2 foot slings and then came to a chicken head. I used the green one to sling it. I don't normally use them to sling features but it worked really well for me then. kylethemonkey
Joined Apr 6, 2011
0 points
Apr 6, 2011
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09
I've had 'em for a year and a half and love them wayyy more than the WC hexes, the expendable feature is pretty stellar. I would highly recommend them Sam Feuerborn
From Durango, CO
Joined Aug 4, 2009
742 points
Apr 8, 2011
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di B...
I have had the largest (blue) Torque Nut for maybe a couple of years. I don't carry it with me often, but so far I've had a positive impression: As others have pointed out, it's relatively light, it cams securely, and the extensible sling rarely needs further extension. brenta
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 2, 2006
72 points
Apr 30, 2011
Those of you who use DMM Torque Nuts, do you ever find extending the sling to be harder than necessary due to the holes being a little too small? Khoi
From Vancouver, BC
Joined Oct 12, 2009
13 points
Apr 30, 2011
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di B...
Khoi wrote:
do you ever find extending the sling to be harder than necessary due to the holes being a little too small?

Yes, the holes are just a bit too small for the sling.
brenta
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 2, 2006
72 points
Jun 14, 2011
brewfest!
Own the set - totally bomber and fun to use, but in most circumstancest where I can place a hex I can place something else nearby that's just -easier? That being said - I did just set a couple of these on a route the other day and I could have held myself and the horse I rode in on off the things.

  • slings are a little tough to move around but try this - while the piece is still placed use the biner to extend the runner - the second can use a similar technique and use the biner to 'grab' both loops of the runner - a good jerk and there back to equalized. Then remove the piece.

Best,
John
John Richardson
From Greenfield, Ma
Joined Jun 2, 2009
66 points
Sep 28, 2011
on Pack Animal Direct
I've had a set for over a year now and as far as I can tell, they're bomber, solid pro.
I can get that they'd feel like toys- they are light. How could something so light save my heavy ass as it whips by at 9.8 meters per second squared? Of course, I have that same experience with my heliums- how in the unholy blazes does that tiny amount of aluminum rate to hold that much force? It makes no sense, but they just work as advertised.

I have placed my torque hexes, weighted them, sat on them as anchor pieces, watched them take repeated load/unload cycles, sometimes with two followers weighting the anchor at the same time. I have seen nothing to leave me suspicious about these versus any other hexes.
ChrisJoosse
Joined Jun 8, 2009
84 points
Sep 28, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron
-sp wrote:
Except that cams and Tri-cams don't always work where a hex will.


Are there placements other than cracks that flare inward where a hex will work and a cam won't? Maybe they're better in some horizontals?

I rarely carry my hexes, mostly because I suck at placing them and usually give up and plug a cam after fiddling with the hex for a while. I'd like to get better at placing hexes, but would like to know that there are more good uses for them than I'm aware of.
Chris D
From the couch
Joined Apr 14, 2009
2,191 points
Sep 28, 2011
I am a neandertal.
-sp wrote:
Except that cams and Tri-cams don't always work where a hex will.


I haven't carried hexes in 10years and have never felt like I couldn't protect something without them.

It also seem to me that most "hard trad climbers" I know don't use hexes, and most of the time I hear the cow bells a-clanging is on "easy" trad routes.
Coeus
From a botched genetics experiment
Joined Apr 24, 2008
46 points
Sep 28, 2011
I have the DMM and the WC hexcentrics. I use both. I can tell that the WC slings seem more durable but the DMM is extendable. But in the real world both seem to have the same durability... Also the DMM set is lighter than the WC for the same usable range but you have one piece less. I will suggest the DMM if you have some big nuts already in your rack. The sling holes of the DMM is bigger than the WC so when you will need to replace the sling by cordelette it can help... bobmirko
Joined May 27, 2010
86 points
Sep 28, 2011
-sp wrote:
Except that cams and Tri-cams don't always work where a hex will.


Every once in a while I'll come to a placement and think, "boy it'd be nice to have a hex for this" and then I remember, oh I do! And I slot a #3 camalot as a big ass nut.
andrewc
Joined Jul 31, 2008
0 points
Sep 28, 2011
This may make you angry, and seem like I'm being a jerk, but please don't get emotional, just look at it objectively and realize I'm actually doing you a huge favor: Hexes are for gumbies. The only real-world application for them is potentially in alpine climbing, and even then they are generally inferior to cams. Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
3,094 points
Sep 28, 2011
Buenos Dias!
Mike Anderson wrote:
This may make you angry, and seem like I'm being a jerk, but please don't get emotional, just look at it objectively and realize I'm actually doing you a huge favor: Hexes are for gumbies. The only real-world application for them is potentially in alpine climbing, and even then they are generally inferior to cams.

Henry Barber is a gumbie?
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Sep 29, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron
-sp wrote:
Henry Barber is a gumbie?


No. Eccentric? Probably.
Chris D
From the couch
Joined Apr 14, 2009
2,191 points
Sep 29, 2011
Buenos Dias!
Chris D wrote:
No. Eccentric? Probably.


Thank god you didn't say "who?"...

-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Sep 29, 2011
Buenos Dias!
johnL wrote:
Improving hex technology is analogous to improving catapult technology in the modern warfront. Yes, you probably can make improvements however it still pales in comparison to the better stuff out there. I can only justify pounding a hex into an ice lined crack. Aside from that, pointless. Drop your cowbells lest I judge thee!



Truth be told, even I've moved on. My new rack is double sets of Lowe-balls and Big-Bro's.
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Oct 22, 2013
Global Village, Red River Gorge KY
I've been using these for the past few months, probably taken them up ten or so routes. I usually place at least one on a route. I'm glad I bought them, and when they place well, are very confidence inspiring. WDW4
Joined Feb 6, 2012
114 points
Oct 22, 2013
another day in RMNP
just got the red and yellow

should be awesome for icy cracks
Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points


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