Mountain Project Logo

DMM Alpha trad

Original Post
djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

These things are $15 each Can they possibly be worth it?
google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Al…

Paolo Speirn · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 10

I bought a pack of the alpha lights (same biner, but smaller) and wasn't keen on them. Heavy for the size, and there are better notchless wire-gates out there. I like WC heliums for a sweet spot of handling and lightness. They're still pricyy, but easier than the DMMs to find new or on sale. Also looking forward to trying DMM's notchless version of their shadow carabiner, the chimera, when it comes out later this year.

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

I think they are great biners. Very deep basket, perfect size, and the nose is very clean. Yes they are pricey but your paying for excellent design and manufacturing.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

I use the alpha trad's on the gear end of all of my alpine draws. Short answer, yes. DMM stuff is the shit. High quality, awesome craftsmanship and super functional. They cost a ton but I love them, and will likely replace them with a new set when they ware.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

The Alpha Trad is a great carabiner. No hook/clean nose. The gate tension is perfect. The shape makes for an easy grab and clip.

I use these as the rope end carabiner for my alpine draws, so I don't have too many of them.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Petzl Ange Draws are the jam!

Mark Thesing · · Central Indiana · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 60

Last year I replaced all my biners I use on my alpine draws and all my loose biner with the Alpha trads and I'm very pleased with them. Like most of everything DMM makes, these are a quality piece of gear. I waited until I found these biners on a 20% off sale before I picked them up. I realize $12 each is still a pretty steep price but I'm happy with the purchase.

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

How are DMM's cams?, this seems like an awesome company, especially since they're from whales lol

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
Jacob Koffler wrote:How are DMM's cams?,
Awesome! Great craftsmanship and materials, extendable sling, and work as described.

I have a full set of Demons and a full set of Dragons.
Dave Hug · · Carbondale, IL · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 12,145

In response to, "How are DMM's cams?, this seems like an awesome company, especially since they're from whales lol"

I think they are great. Mine are attached showing wear after a few weeks of extensive use at Red Rocks.

DMM Dragons!

They have taken the BD design and improved upon them. From what I can tell is that they have improved springs giving them better grip, and the extendable slings are an added bonus. Many people complain about the thumb press but I don't see the problem with it, they are no harder to place than BD's. Plus they are pretty much the same exact sizes as camalots and boast the same colors, making them easy to add into any rack containing camalots.

The only other complaint I have found is that since the webbing is to skinny, and in certain cases, it shows wear more and this worries some folk. I can't remember where I read it, but I believe that DMM will provide a deal to help get them reslung.

I have no complaint with using the Dragons and they are proving to be my most trusted cam on my rack.

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Thanks for the reviews, I need to start buying cams and these seem like a great set to start with.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

You can resling the DMMs with tech cord too. I would say this is a great alternative to sending them back and waiting for them to be returned. Unless you just like the matching, pretty colors the new slings have.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Unless yr a eurobum shipping the dragons back to the UK to resling is pretty expensive

They dont have a north american resling operation that i know off

Simply use techcord with a double fishy (recommended by maxim) ... Its cheaper, DIY, and you can make the "sling" longer than the original

Dragon

DMM nuts are IMO da best, the biners are top quality but will cost u

I have DMM shields for the bolt side on my draws, which is the most likely side to get loaded in funny ways

;)

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Sweet ! Now if i just had some extra $ ....

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

And those Revolver biners look awesome as well !

Sean Brady · · Spearfish, SD · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 125

Actually if you just teach your second to grab the sling right at the top of the cam while it is still set it's easier to rack than a draw attached to a C4, or worse, an extended alpine draw.

I love my Dragons so much I place them much more often than my C4's, and the extended sling lightens my rack noticeably.

However if anyone doesn't agree and would like to trade their dragons for my C4's I'm happy to oblige :).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "DMM Alpha trad"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started