Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Mustang
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
BeeWare! S 
Caballo Loco S 
Caliente S 
Chertin for Certain S 
Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there) S 
Left Y Crack S 
Men In Funny Hats S 
Mojo T,S 
Mustang Sally S 
New Safari S 
No Mas Boot T,S 
Nova Super Sport S 
Pencil Dick S 
Saddle Up S 
Se Camina Espanol S 
Slim Jim T,S 
Stinkbug Cowgirl S 
Violent Green Swallow S 


YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Rhicard, Jim Scott
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Braxtron on Feb 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Approximate route with ropes @ DMB anchor.


First half is 5.8, not-so-great. Second half is committing, fun, and will put hair on your chest, be you a man or woman.


Just before the "corner" where the south face starts to curve and become a west face. Either double rope rappel, or rap. to P1 anchors of New Safari (from end of DMB: about 100' down and 15' left).


Ring anchors @ top + lots of bolts. Bring all the draws you got.

Photos of DMB Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 anchor of New Safari w/approximate DMB route in...
BETA PHOTO: P1 anchor of New Safari w/approximate DMB route in...

Comments on DMB Add Comment
Show which comments
By Braxtron
From: ...
May 1, 2007

FA'ers rate this climb 10+ on the topo.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think it took 16 draws for this route and was super windy after pulling the bulge towards the top.

Let this be your last stop. Continuing around the corner in search of great lines requires more desire & landscaping tools than I had.
By Jimbo
Feb 6, 2009

Your missing some fine climbing by not thrashing further along to get on Caballo Loco, Fuerte Vaquero, Pegasus Weeps and I Laughed I Cried. These are 4 really good routes that will fill your day. Take 2 ropes, and some extra hold on.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 25, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Pulled three fist-sized rocks off prior to the rounding the roof. I was never in any danger and had time to warn my belayer before tossing the rocks to the ground.

FYI... Direct Mustang Buttress (DMB)

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!