First half is 5.8, not-so-great. Second half is committing, fun, and will put hair on your chest, be you a man or woman.
Just before the "corner" where the south face starts to curve and become a west face. Either double rope rappel, or rap. to P1 anchors of New Safari (from end of DMB: about 100' down and 15' left).
Ring anchors @ top + lots of bolts. Bring all the draws you got.
BETA PHOTO: P1 anchor of New Safari w/approximate DMB route in...
May 1, 2007
FA'ers rate this climb 10+ on the topo.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I think it took 16 draws for this route and was super windy after pulling the bulge towards the top.
Let this be your last stop. Continuing around the corner in search of great lines requires more desire & landscaping tools than I had.
Feb 6, 2009
Your missing some fine climbing by not thrashing further along to get on Caballo Loco, Fuerte Vaquero, Pegasus Weeps and I Laughed I Cried. These are 4 really good routes that will fill your day. Take 2 ropes, and some extra hold on.
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 25, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pulled three fist-sized rocks off prior to the rounding the roof. I was never in any danger and had time to warn my belayer before tossing the rocks to the ground.
FYI... Direct Mustang Buttress (DMB)