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The Mustang
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DMB 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Rhicard, Jim Scott
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: Braxtron on Feb 4, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Approximate route with ropes @ DMB anchor.

Description 

First half is 5.8, not-so-great. Second half is committing, fun, and will put hair on your chest, be you a man or woman.


Location 

Just before the "corner" where the south face starts to curve and become a west face. Either double rope rappel, or rap. to P1 anchors of New Safari (from end of DMB: about 100' down and 15' left).


Protection 

Ring anchors @ top + lots of bolts. Bring all the draws you got.



Photos of DMB Slideshow Add Photo
P1 anchor of New Safari w/approximate DMB route in black.
BETA PHOTO: P1 anchor of New Safari w/approximate DMB route in...
Comments on DMB Add Comment
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By Braxtron
From: ...
May 1, 2007

FA'ers rate this climb 10+ on the topo.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I think it took 16 draws for this route and was super windy after pulling the bulge towards the top.

Let this be your last stop. Continuing around the corner in search of great lines requires more desire & landscaping tools than I had.

By Jimbo
Feb 6, 2009

Susan,
Your missing some fine climbing by not thrashing further along to get on Caballo Loco, Fuerte Vaquero, Pegasus Weeps and I Laughed I Cried. These are 4 really good routes that will fill your day. Take 2 ropes, and some extra hold on.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 25, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Pulled three fist-sized rocks off prior to the rounding the roof. I was never in any danger and had time to warn my belayer before tossing the rocks to the ground.

FYI... Direct Mustang Buttress (DMB)