Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
[This route was originally TR'd by John Paine and friend in the '80s and called Dizzy Miss Lizzy for John's girlfriend, Liz, who accompanied the climbers and was uncomfortable with the [exposure] of the East Slabs. John gave permission for the retro bolting but asked that the name to remain. Retro-named] Scrutiny on the Bounty, [it] is located on the "Wall of Holes" which is basically in a deep cleft/gully on Tower Two, just above the top-out of Redguard. The route climbs up behind a large pine tree that is growing out of this gully and was quite easy to find.
This route is really, really fun, well-protected, and steep! In fact, there probably isn't an 11 move on the climb, but surviving the pump is what probably gives it the grade.
Make an awkward stretch to a huge jug and make the first clip here. Continue up on incredible huecos to the fifth bolt, and pull onto the slab and a sixth bolt. The crux is probably the transition to the slab where you must step left and making a technical reach to a hidden, incut edge.
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Comments on Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)
By John Payne May 18, 2005 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
I found this route one day after doing the Edge, and I also remember that Christian had done something near it. Rick Dirkson and I top-roped it, and we called it Dizzy Miss Lizzy because my wife (then girlfriend) was totally petrified being up there. I tied my supertape chalkbag belt around her wrist as a form of belay to get her across the exposed parts on the way up.
John, thanks for sharing the story behind the name "Dizzy Miss Lizzy". I'm okay with keeping that original name for this fun route.
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Aug 15, 2011 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Happened upon this random route for the first time yesterday. Well bolted for Eldo! Tough start, slabby finish, and lots of fun in-between. Definitely worth a run after topping out on Anthill Direct or any of its neighbors.