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The PlaceThis oldie but goody lies in north Escondido, in the city park of Dixon Lake. This climbing area is a small outcrop of rocks, that has several clean cracks and faces for the novice/intermediate to set up. Its been used and abused, with partiers and cavalier bolters having their way with the place, but beyond the ill-treated history lies several routes that will remain worthy of many new climbers aspirations. Some bouldering exists, although compared to other areas it may seem a bit contrived. Getting ThereVia I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a potential citation. Entrance is free during the week. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dixon Lake:
The Y Crack 5.7 Trad, TR The Y Crack Area
Eagles Peak 5.8 R Trad, TR, 35 feet Eagles Peak Area
Hairy Airy 5.9 Trad, 35 feet The Y Crack Area
The Scalpel 5.9 TR, 15 feet The Prowe Area
The Shoulder 5.10a Trad, TR The Roof Area
Blood and Roses 5.10b Trad, TR, 25 feet The Prowe Area
MTV 5.10b Trad, TR, 20 feet Eagles Peak Area
Double D 5.10d TR The Roof Area
The Roof 5.10d Trad, TR The Roof Area
The 5.11 Problem 5.11- TR The Y Crack Area
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Chopped Suey) 5.11a/b TR, 18 feet Eagles Peak Area
Triple D 5.11b TR The Roof Area
The Prowe 5.11b/c TR, 30 feet The Prowe Area
Overhanging Crack 5.12a TR, 25 feet Eagles Peak Area
Featured Route For Dixon Lake
The Roof 5.10d CA : San Diego County : ... : The Roof Area
This ascends the obvious roof crack via a cave. The crux is reaching up with the right hand and reaching for a "sliding pinky slot." From this reasonably good hold, one pulls the feet up and finishes off via lieback move or two. Thrilling route. Highly recommended...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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