Dixie Rising  5.10d R

30 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet FA:  Collins, Fortner,Birch 1989 Submitted By:  Tony B on Sep 12, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Dixie Rising ascends the face to the right of the ...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This climb is nearly a variation of the route 'Move Like A Stud.' It is less strenuous, but more devious. Start just right of M.L.A.S. and just left of a huge pine, growing against the cliff. It is apparent that this tree was "trimmed" at some point to facilitate the climbing here but not to any significant amount.

Climb up from the lower right to reach up under a junky-looking flake, which is surprisingly, quite solid. Reaching left under this will produce a tank-god jug. Getting to this point though seems insecure and the first bolt is above. Be confident/solid, get a spotter, or stick-clip the first bolt. Climb to the first bolt, up to the second (don't get sucked left) and then do the crux, which is moving up and left into the crack of "Move Like A Stud" which you join just after its last hard moves. Continue on that climb to a fixed anchor up top.

Protection 

2 bolts before cutting left and joining 'Move Like A Stud' which can be protected from that point ona single light set of cams. Getting to the first clip was a little insecure/scarey, but not hard once I knew the holds.