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Dixie Reality 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  Sean Cobourn, Buddy Brasington, and Eddie Medina 2006 FFA: Shannan Milsaps 4-27-08
Page Views: 6,291
Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Jan 8, 2008

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Shannon Millsaps starting his voyage. Photo by Ed ...

Description 

Face climb up face from the left to crack through roof. Launch out the roof to the end. Turn the corner on the tip and pull up onto face. Hard moves lead to easy scrambling to a tree up top.

Location 

between Shumont Mountain and Hanging Chain area

Protection 

takes multiple #3 camalots and other gear.


Photos of Dixie Reality Slideshow Add Photo
Ed Williams nearing the crux photo by Shannan Mill...
Ed Williams nearing the crux photo by Shannan Mill...

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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Jan 8, 2008

I blatantly aided the thing. Ed and Shannon (see photos) are making great strides towards freeing it.
By david Adkins
Feb 20, 2008

I'm sorry, and I'm sure that I'll get an ear-full but what part of that roof is 5.10?
By Jacob Neathawk
From: Nederland, CO
Mar 18, 2008

has this route been freed yet? looks amazing
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 9, 2008

David- the approach up to the roof is 5.10 and most of moves out the roof itself are not that hard; individually. The jams are pretty good, the pro is bomber and the fall is clean. Ed predicts it will be "only" 11+. Probably will go soon. We just haven't been back lately.
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 27, 2008

Ed Williams, Shannon Millsaps and I went in there today in pretty iffy weather. In one of the finest displays of climbing I have ever witnessed, Shannon fired the coveted FFA on his first try since last year. Let's say it is 5.12.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 3, 2009

It's really great that FAs like this can still be found these days. Great work. You have truly created a "Back in the day" hardman story to tell future generations of climbers.
By Sam Stephens
Feb 21, 2011

Any beta on finding this thing? Didn't notice it on my way to hanging chain yesterday.