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Dixie Peach 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger, Eric Schoen & Rob Frick, November 1973
Season: summer
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: sibylle on Jul 12, 2009
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Pitch 1, Dixie Peach

Description 

Pitch 1. Head up an easy flake system for about 40 feet. At the top of the flake, follow a small left-facing corner until it ends. (South Crack traverses right from here to the next crack to the right). From the end of the corner, climb on friction, passing a bolt (5.9 move), to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2. The second pitch heads up and slightly left on friction. According to one older topo, there should be a bolt anchor, which we never found. We belayed at a small ledge with a small crack.
Pitch 3. Friction climbing leads up to the small cracks above the top of the Great White Book and a gear anchor.
Pitch 4. Meander up easy terrain to the top of the Great White Book and another gear anchor.
Warning: There once was a bolted anchor, which has been removed. I saw the remains of several bolts. With a 60-meter rope, we were able to reach small flakes and cracks to place an anchor. Depending on how long you run the pitches, this can be climbed in more or fewer pitches.


Location 

Dixie Peach and South Crack share the same start. Climb third-class slabs to a large ledge to the right of the Great White Book.


Protection 

Small wires on the first corner and cams up to a #2 Camalot.



Photos of Dixie Peach Slideshow Add Photo
South Crack and Dixie Peach diverge on this small ledge. South Crack traverses right; Dixie Peach continues up the small corner
South Crack and Dixie Peach diverge on this small ...
Hal on pitch 1 of Dixie Peach
Hal on pitch 1 of Dixie Peach
Starting up the corner of Dixie Peach
Starting up the corner of Dixie Peach
Pitch 2, Dixie Peach
Pitch 2, Dixie Peach
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