Dixie Fury  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Doug Reed, linkup FA Sam Stephens Submitted By:  Sam Stephens on Mar 4, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Dixie fury

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb up the concave face to the short roof crack and pull the bulge. Follow shiny bolts to anchors. I left a quick link and a biner on the anchor for lowering and rapping, please leave them for others to use.

Watch for rotten rock through the bulge, this will clean up with traffic. Rumor is is that the big block directly below the climb fell out of the climb at some point. This may be the reason for the rotten rock above the bulge.

After getting some more information on Dixie Fury, it seems it originally ended after the roof. Following the Stark Whining extension to the top created a new link up and a longer full value pitch.

Location 

Between the whining and slabsters

Protection 

1 bolt, gear through the roof, then follow the 4 bolts on Stark Whining to anchors. It's possible to back up the first bolt with a cam.