Mountain Project Logo

Dixie crackheads: Best crack climbs in the South?

Original Post
Kevin McGuire · · Lawrenceville, Georgia · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 10

This may have been a forum already but I could not find it if so.

I am sort of putting together a hit-list and was wondering- what are the best crack climbs in the South? Maybe post your top 5 or 10. I have a few in mind but would like to see what folks think.

Thanks- Kevin

Darbley Sterway · · Aspen · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 5

Nice

Halljt3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 5

Check out Old Rag.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

if you're into finger cracks, check out The Rose
the second pitch isn't great and doesn't have an anchor so i couldn't recommend it.

Kevin McGuire · · Lawrenceville, Georgia · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 10

Old Rag seems like a treasure chest, I'll definitely look into that more. The Rose looks sweet man- its goin on the list. Thanks.

So I will go ahead and post my top ten that I have climbed in no particular order:

1-Pitch 2 of White Lightning on Table Rock, Linville Gorge NC (5.8)
2- Registration (The Arch) at Jamestown AL (5.9+)
3- Booze and Broads (5.9+) at Lost Wall GA
4- Cakewalk (5.10a) Twall TN
5-Goldenlocks 5.8+ Twall TN
6- In Pursuit of Excellence (5.9+) Twall
7-Golden Gloves (5.10a) Twall (sort of mixed but really nice finger section)
8-Birds Nest Crack (5.9) Steele AL
9- Comatose (5.8) Rumbling Bald NC
10- Frosted Flake (5.9+) rumbling Bald NC

Chad Namolik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 2,905

1. In Pursuit of Excellence - TWall
2. Golden Locks - TWall
3. GPS Crack - Suck Cr./Roadside
4. Pancake Flake - Sunset
5. Cakewalk - TWall
6. Precious Orr - TWall
7. Crackattack - TWall
8. A Walk in the Park - Sunset
9. Passages - TWall
10 Cracked Actor - Leda

also enjoyed
A Tension Span, Hidden Assets, Open Sesame and Dirt Bag at TWall.
Ox Crack at Leda.

Oh you said 10, sorry. Typical crackhead, always craving more.

edit to add: Rusty's and Stan's at Sunset both look sweet but haven't' been on them yet.

Kevin McGuire · · Lawrenceville, Georgia · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 10

nice list!

Travis Weil · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Here are some of the best cracks that I have been on.
Shredded Wheat- Rumbling Bald
Captain Crunch - Rumbling Bald
2nd Pitch of The Odyssey- Looking Glass
Cornflake Crack - Looking Glass
New Yosemite - New River Gorge
Stuck in Another Dimension - New River Gorge
B3 - Red River Gorge

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

My southern climbing is all limited to Arkansas:

-Hackberry Crack at HCR
-W.M.A. at HCR
-Deft Jams at HCR
-Up Your Buttress at HCR
-Solitaire at Mount Magazine
-Radical Changes at Mount Magazine

Chad Namolik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 2,905

I'm loving this thread, thanks for starting it up Kevin. Awesome to see all the recommended/favorite crack climbs from places I'll get to someday.

Kevin McGuire · · Lawrenceville, Georgia · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 10

likewise Chad. Thanks for posting. Enjoying checking out these routes.

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

All those, plus a few not yet mentioned:

T-Wall: Stone Wave, Fly with the Falcon, The Heaven Of Animals, Points, Finger Lockin' (short but good) Open Casket*, Electric Rats, (I haven't climbed Mrs. Socrates but they tell me I should), that dirty thing way down R that Draper cleaned up**, Day's Work, Wild Pink, Only on Earth, Air Raid.

  • A really big crack
  • *Intruders in the Dust

Sunset: Jefferson Airplane (and its skinny neighbor_____), RJ Gold, Alpha Omega, Toothpick. Rusty's.

Help Mr. Wizard; Supercrack: Shortoff
NC Wall: Apricot Jam

At the Glass: Cornflake, Airwaves p1, the Womb, Safari Jive, Odyssey (sort of. It's got a crack), Unfinished Concerto. Some boulder problem under the N. Face that climbs like the Bachar Cracker.

Asterisk for Fat Dog, which is a stemming-while -taking the-6-for-a-walk kinda deal, and the Sperm, which is crack-easque but not real splitter.
Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Rock wars-rrg
The entertainer-Nrg
Autumn- rrg
New Yosemite-Nrg
Dip wall-rrg

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,153

In no particular order except that Mrs. Socrates is tops on the list.

Mrs. Socrates-T Wall (hands and fingers with a crack boulder problem)
Fly With the Falcon-T Wall (hands and fingers)
Finger Lockin' Good-T Wall (fingers)
Cakewalk-T Wall (fingers and hands)
The Beckoning-NRG (stemming and fingers)
Chasing the Wind-NRG (fingers)
Agent Orange-NRG (hands and fingers)
Linear Encounters-NRG (stemming, hands, fingers, face)
Leave it to Jesus-NRG (fingers and face)
Shredded Wheat-Rumbling Bald (fingers)

Ed Wade · · Hermann, MO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 785

Also in no particular order:

Bushwhack Crack - Old Rag
Oh My God Dihedral - Old Rag
Crackattack - RRG
Andromeda Strain - RRG
Chasin' the Wind - NRG
Supercrack - NRG
Rod Serling Crack - NRG
Autumn Fire - NRG
Marionette - NRG
Crackattack - T-wall

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Cornflake Crack

Hands Across America

Welcome to Ol Kentuck

Rock Wars

Only on Earth

Fists of Fury

Champagne Jam.

Rick B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 5
Will S wrote:Cornflake Crack Hands Across America Welcome to Ol Kentuck Rock Wars Only on Earth Fists of Fury Champagne Jam.
I second this list!
Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190
Knife Crack at Griffin Falls, AL probably deserves to be on the list. Short but sweet!
Africa at the Red River Gorge offers some pretty good crack climbing too.
Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

I'd add Stan's Route at Sunset Park.

+1 for Deft Jam and WMA at HCR.

Chad Namolik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 2,905

big +1 for Open Casket at TWall. Just got on that today and wow, what a chimney! Good hands too. Steep and long. Good stuff.

Dustin Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,139

in the Red:

Inhibitor, B3, Bloodline, Solar Flare, Fibrulator Direct

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
Post a Reply to "Dixie crackheads: Best crack climbs in the South?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.