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Kevin McGuire
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Mar 22, 2015
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Lawrenceville, Georgia
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 10
This may have been a forum already but I could not find it if so. I am sort of putting together a hit-list and was wondering- what are the best crack climbs in the South? Maybe post your top 5 or 10. I have a few in mind but would like to see what folks think. Thanks- Kevin
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Darbley Sterway
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Mar 22, 2015
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Aspen
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 5
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Halljt3
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Mar 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 5
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eli poss
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Mar 22, 2015
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
if you're into finger cracks, check out The Rose the second pitch isn't great and doesn't have an anchor so i couldn't recommend it.
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Kevin McGuire
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Mar 22, 2015
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Lawrenceville, Georgia
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 10
Old Rag seems like a treasure chest, I'll definitely look into that more. The Rose looks sweet man- its goin on the list. Thanks. So I will go ahead and post my top ten that I have climbed in no particular order: 1-Pitch 2 of White Lightning on Table Rock, Linville Gorge NC (5.8) 2- Registration (The Arch) at Jamestown AL (5.9+) 3- Booze and Broads (5.9+) at Lost Wall GA 4- Cakewalk (5.10a) Twall TN 5-Goldenlocks 5.8+ Twall TN 6- In Pursuit of Excellence (5.9+) Twall 7-Golden Gloves (5.10a) Twall (sort of mixed but really nice finger section) 8-Birds Nest Crack (5.9) Steele AL 9- Comatose (5.8) Rumbling Bald NC 10- Frosted Flake (5.9+) rumbling Bald NC
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Chad Namolik
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Mar 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 2,905
1. In Pursuit of Excellence - TWall 2. Golden Locks - TWall 3. GPS Crack - Suck Cr./Roadside 4. Pancake Flake - Sunset 5. Cakewalk - TWall 6. Precious Orr - TWall 7. Crackattack - TWall 8. A Walk in the Park - Sunset 9. Passages - TWall 10 Cracked Actor - Leda also enjoyed A Tension Span, Hidden Assets, Open Sesame and Dirt Bag at TWall. Ox Crack at Leda. Oh you said 10, sorry. Typical crackhead, always craving more.
edit to add: Rusty's and Stan's at Sunset both look sweet but haven't' been on them yet.
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Kevin McGuire
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Mar 23, 2015
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Lawrenceville, Georgia
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 10
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Travis Weil
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Mar 23, 2015
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Leavenworth, WA
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 0
Here are some of the best cracks that I have been on. Shredded Wheat- Rumbling Bald Captain Crunch - Rumbling Bald 2nd Pitch of The Odyssey- Looking Glass Cornflake Crack - Looking Glass New Yosemite - New River Gorge Stuck in Another Dimension - New River Gorge B3 - Red River Gorge
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Creed Archibald
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Mar 23, 2015
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 1,016
My southern climbing is all limited to Arkansas: -Hackberry Crack at HCR -W.M.A. at HCR -Deft Jams at HCR -Up Your Buttress at HCR -Solitaire at Mount Magazine -Radical Changes at Mount Magazine
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Chad Namolik
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Mar 23, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 2,905
I'm loving this thread, thanks for starting it up Kevin. Awesome to see all the recommended/favorite crack climbs from places I'll get to someday.
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Kevin McGuire
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Mar 23, 2015
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Lawrenceville, Georgia
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 10
likewise Chad. Thanks for posting. Enjoying checking out these routes.
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Rob Dillon
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Mar 23, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2002
· Points: 760
All those, plus a few not yet mentioned: T-Wall: Stone Wave, Fly with the Falcon, The Heaven Of Animals, Points, Finger Lockin' (short but good) Open Casket*, Electric Rats, (I haven't climbed Mrs. Socrates but they tell me I should), that dirty thing way down R that Draper cleaned up**, Day's Work, Wild Pink, Only on Earth, Air Raid. - A really big crack
- *Intruders in the Dust
Sunset: Jefferson Airplane (and its skinny neighbor_____), RJ Gold, Alpha Omega, Toothpick. Rusty's. Help Mr. Wizard; Supercrack: Shortoff NC Wall: Apricot Jam At the Glass: Cornflake, Airwaves p1, the Womb, Safari Jive, Odyssey (sort of. It's got a crack), Unfinished Concerto. Some boulder problem under the N. Face that climbs like the Bachar Cracker. Asterisk for Fat Dog, which is a stemming-while -taking the-6-for-a-walk kinda deal, and the Sperm, which is crack-easque but not real splitter.
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Donovan Allen
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Mar 23, 2015
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Soft Lake City
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 356
Rock wars-rrg The entertainer-Nrg Autumn- rrg New Yosemite-Nrg Dip wall-rrg
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Jon Clark
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Mar 23, 2015
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Planet Earth
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 1,153
In no particular order except that Mrs. Socrates is tops on the list. Mrs. Socrates-T Wall (hands and fingers with a crack boulder problem) Fly With the Falcon-T Wall (hands and fingers) Finger Lockin' Good-T Wall (fingers) Cakewalk-T Wall (fingers and hands) The Beckoning-NRG (stemming and fingers) Chasing the Wind-NRG (fingers) Agent Orange-NRG (hands and fingers) Linear Encounters-NRG (stemming, hands, fingers, face) Leave it to Jesus-NRG (fingers and face) Shredded Wheat-Rumbling Bald (fingers)
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Ed Wade
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Mar 23, 2015
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Hermann, MO
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 785
Also in no particular order: Bushwhack Crack - Old Rag Oh My God Dihedral - Old Rag Crackattack - RRG Andromeda Strain - RRG Chasin' the Wind - NRG Supercrack - NRG Rod Serling Crack - NRG Autumn Fire - NRG Marionette - NRG Crackattack - T-wall
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Will S
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Mar 23, 2015
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Joshua Tree
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 1,061
Cornflake Crack Hands Across America Welcome to Ol Kentuck Rock Wars Only on Earth Fists of Fury Champagne Jam.
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Rick B
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Mar 23, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 5
Will S wrote:Cornflake Crack Hands Across America Welcome to Ol Kentuck Rock Wars Only on Earth Fists of Fury Champagne Jam. I second this list!
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Chuck Parks
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Mar 23, 2015
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Jan 2008
· Points: 2,190
Knife Crack at Griffin Falls, AL probably deserves to be on the list. Short but sweet! Africa at the Red River Gorge offers some pretty good crack climbing too.
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Nathan Self
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Mar 23, 2015
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Louisiana
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 90
I'd add Stan's Route at Sunset Park. +1 for Deft Jam and WMA at HCR.
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Chad Namolik
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Mar 23, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 2,905
big +1 for Open Casket at TWall. Just got on that today and wow, what a chimney! Good hands too. Steep and long. Good stuff.
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Dustin Stephens
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Mar 23, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 1,139
in the Red: Inhibitor, B3, Bloodline, Solar Flare, Fibrulator Direct
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