Dixie Chicken  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 35 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Mike Trew, Mark Kearse 1997 Season:  Spring-Fall Submitted By:  TomCaldwell on Jul 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Me at the start of the thin crack with Eric at bel...

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the thin beautiful crack at the far left side of the lower wall.

This is one of the few routes that requires some specialized gear. Bring a set of brass or ballnutz to protect the start in the thin crack. This crack looks to have eaten a purple TCU. Booty if you can get it! Enjoy the slab up the thin crack, then move left to a bolt. Pull up to the steepness to a short crack, the leftmost of the two. Plug some gear in the crack and pull up onto the slab. Get into the short corner and reach the tree just above with cable anchor and slings.

Protection 

Thin to medium sized gear. Some long runners to extend the tree anchor over the ledge. The rappel cable looks to be in good shape, but bring extra webbing if you doubt it. The cable has two quick links to get down. A 60m or less will be fine.

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Eric clipping up the pro in the steep section.

Dixie Chicken, 5.10a.