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Dixie Chicken 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Trew, Mark Kearse 1997
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Jul 4, 2011

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Dixie Chicken, 5.10a.

Description 

This is the thin beautiful crack at the far left side of the lower wall.

This is one of the few routes that requires some specialized gear. Bring a set of brass or ballnutz to protect the start in the thin crack. This crack looks to have eaten a purple TCU. Booty if you can get it! Enjoy the slab up the thin crack, then move left to a bolt. Pull up to the steepness to a short crack, the leftmost of the two. Plug some gear in the crack and pull up onto the slab. Get into the short corner and reach the tree just above with cable anchor and slings.

Protection 

Thin to medium sized gear. Some long runners to extend the tree anchor over the ledge. The rappel cable looks to be in good shape, but bring extra webbing if you doubt it. The cable has two quick links to get down. A 60m or less will be fine.


Photos of Dixie Chicken Slideshow Add Photo
Me at the start of the thin crack with Eric at bel...
Me at the start of the thin crack with Eric at bel...
Eric clipping up the pro in the steep section.
Eric clipping up the pro in the steep section.

Comments on Dixie Chicken Add Comment
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By Rick Carpenter
From: Banner Elk, NC
Jul 4, 2011

I was told the original route (5.10a) goes up the crack to the right after the bolt. They gave the one farther left 5.9
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You can protect the first couple moves with a BD 00.