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Division Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
39 S 
Abyss, The S 
Atheist, The S 
Baghdad S 
Black Hole S 
Blurred Vision S 
Deep End S 
Division S 
Isotoner Moaner S 
Kiddie Pool S 
Les is More S 
Liquid Oxygen S 
Litmus Test S 
Multiplication T 
No Lifeguard on Duty T 
Nowhere to Go S 
Physical Therapy S 
Pocket Change S 
Quicklime Girl S 
Remote Control S 
Running Woman S 
Rush Hour S 
Secret Weapon S 
Shallow Beginning S 
Shark Club S 
Struggling Man S 
Teenagers in Heat S 
Total Recall S 

Division Wall  

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Location: 40.4503, -111.668 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,154
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Division Wall North 1. Liquid Oxygen 5.12a 2. The ...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Suburban climbing at its highest level of expression unfolds at Division Wall. Convenient, crowded on the weekends, zip for approach, well-constructed, half-rope climbs on killer limestone all await the hike averse. If you like sleeping in after a long day at the crags, this is the place to be.

Division Wall actually has upper and lower sections, but why hike to higher ground when you can have 25 to 30 routes to choose between by staying close to camp? Division Wall has warm-up routes in abundance, a slew of 5.11, 5.12, and a bit of 5.13. The rock has cleaned up with use, some friable edges seem always to pop off here, and on our last visit did not seem too greasy.

If you come to AF, you cannot miss the Division Wall classics like Liquid Oxygen, Isotoner Moaner, Division, Teenagers in Heat, and on and on. Just do it.

Getting There 

Drive 1.3 miles up from TCNM to the Little Mill campground. Arrive on Friday night and you are likely to find a camp site, but never on Saturday. The Division Wall is right behind campsite 64.


The Little Mill Campground hosts have asked that climbers slow down and observe the speed limit in the campground (10mph). Apparently there have been several close calls with speeding vehicles and small children in the campground.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.6 miles from here

28 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Division Wall:
No Lifeguard on Duty   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Physical Therapy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Les is More   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Kiddie Pool   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Quicklime Girl   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Deep End   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Pocket Change   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Running Woman   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 45'   
Remote Control   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Shallow Beginning   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
39   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Atheist   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Rush Hour   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Litmus Test   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Division   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Total Recall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Struggling Man   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Liquid Oxygen   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   
Isotoner Moaner   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Abyss   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Division Wall

Featured Route For Division Wall
Litmus Test

Litmus Test 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Division Wall
Solid 5.10 climbing directly up the face gives way to a nice resting stance. Shake out, and pull a series of gnarly moves to get over the left part of the well-protected roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Division Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Division Wall West 9. Shark Club 5.12a 10. Secret ...
BETA PHOTO: Division Wall West 9. Shark Club 5.12a 10. Secret ...
Division Wall North Face 5-Black Hole, 6-Physical ...
BETA PHOTO: Division Wall North Face 5-Black Hole, 6-Physical ...

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By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jul 26, 2014
Heads up! The belay area at the Division Wall in American Fork will be undergoing a makeover starting July 31st till the SLCA Adopt a Crag Day on August 2nd. Most of the work will occur on the North side of Division Wall and will be closed for climbing. We hope to see you at the August 2nd Adopt a Crag to help improve this crag. Please sign up to volunteer at: saltlakeclimbers.org/event-reg...

Adopt a Crag
Adopt a Crag
By J Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Aug 4, 2014
Was at Division Wall today-- the campsite numbering looks to have changed at some point-- there didn't appear to be a #64. Instead, park next to the vault toilets just before the wheel-spike exit and walk forward. Alternately, park just outside the L.M. campground exit and walk in...

The belay areas looked awesome today, 8/4/14, thanks to the SLCA. Thanks!
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jul 17, 2015
division wall staging area
division wall staging area

The SLCA and Access Fund Conservation Crew started to stabilize the staging area at the Division Wall last year. We need your help to finish this project this year August 1st, 2015. Please SIGN UP for the Adopt a Crag HERE. saltlakeclimbers.org/adopt-a-c...
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Sep 13, 2015
As of 9/2/2015 the re-bolting of the Division Wall is complete! This has been the pilot project for the SLCA's Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative (WARI), funded through Salt Lake Climbers Alliance memberships and fundraising with additional help from a generous Petzl Foundation grant; a forerunner of the Access Fund's Climbing Conservation Grant Program.

Thanks to everyone that has volunteered and for the patience and support of the climbers we encountered at Division. Special thanks to John Ross for his commitment to the project as well as his garage-tech, slide hammer method for removing the sleeves and cones of the ubiquitous, Rawl 5-piece bolts. This helped us reuse the majority of the old holes. Climbtech's Wave bolts were invaluable as the best available anchor system for the sometimes wet and/or chossy limestone.

As a reminder, the agreement with the Forest Service, documented in the Ruckman guide, specifies:"...No new routes in Little Mill Campground; Quickdraws cannot be left overnight on any route in Little Mill Campground..." The community has done a great job of adhering to these conditions for the most part, and the FS has reciprocated support of climbing activities by providing day use parking and financing the ongoing stabilization of staging areas. Let's keep up the good work, and if you want your 2 draws back from the Abyss, contact the SLCA.

Here's some more info on the project:

- 182 out of 205 bolts were replaced over the course of 9 work days.

- On-site volunteers contributed over 150 hours to the project.

- Training and oversight was provided by the SLCA.

- Existing stainless steel bolts from past re-bolting efforts were generally left in place.

- Wave bolts made up 95% of the bolts placed.

- Anchor sets consist of 316 SS, 5/16" quick links, between the 316 SS Wave bolts and high-test, plated- steel, 3/8" chain painted with a self-etching primer.

- Over 80% of the old holes were re-used with exceptions due to: sheering or stripping of old bolt heads while attempting to unscrew corroded studs from the sleeves/cones or improved micro-sighting of an anchor within a couple of feet from the old location.

- Three, high traffic, moderate routes saw more significant changes. Brian Smoot suggested that adding one bolt to the sum total was an acceptable compromise in addressing safety concerns specific to Black Hole, Physical Therapy, and Teenagers in Heat.

- Un-embedded Fixe adhesive bolts that had come loose were pulled and re-installed on Deep End.

Its been a great first project for WARI. Weve been able to implement methodologies that can be applied across the various limestone climbing areas in the Wasatch. Division definitely had some of the oldest bolts (25 years+), but the clock is ticking on a growing backlog. Well be moving on to other crags in American Fork canyon and elsewhere, expanding the initiative as we go.

Goodbye to washer stacks and 25 year old plated st...
Goodbye to washer stacks and 25 year old plated steel bolts!

John Ross Photo
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