|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Sharp and Carry, 1979|
|Submitted By:||Anonymous Coward on Sep 24, 2002|
|Comments on Divine Wind||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 7, 2006
Finally got on this as the first climb of my brother Paul's 4-day visit. A bit too ambitious for me, as I struggled on the 9 approach, got the first hard move into the stem, then hung a bunch figuring out the next moves into the higher stem. Lowered from there and Paul led through the upper crux clean. I was unable to get it clean on TR.
Neither of us could figure out the 10d "escape" out L. Perhaps it's at the very top.
Gear for the approach is red and gold Camalot and green and yellow Aliens. Then small brass protect the first crux. Paul placed 3 good small nuts to protect the final crux.
By Steve Annecone
Nov 11, 2006
|Ivan is right about the nuts protecting the crux, however.... a few years ago I belayed a friend leading who fell at the crux resulting in snapping the cable of the first nut, yanking out the second, then snapping the cable of the 3rd nut! (it's possible that both of the nuts that snapped had worn or kinked cables) The 4th piece, a small blue TCU held the whipper. So be careful of what you place there.|
By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 6, 2010
|A very nice climb when combined with Wounded Knee to top out. The pro is really good the whole way with small stuff. I have only done the original finish once, a million years ago, on the dull end and I remember my friend Andy Burnham, who would lead anything, commenting that it was pretty dicey. It certainly seemed he had done a load of hard moves before he got anything in.|