Divine Wind / All the Nasties 5.8+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | susan peplow on Oct 17, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Malice/Nasties area.
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Some areas require a guide.
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Description From the top of the Malice Boulder, this route is located on the shoulder immediately to the right of Paul Bunyon Chimney.
P1 Climb well featured rock as you angle up and right towards Urinal Ledge to 2 bolt anchor.
P2 First bolt off of Urinal Ledge is to the left and up about 6 feet. Follow featured rock up to the headwall, wandering right past a rusted 1/4" bolt, and then continue without gear to a large ledge at the base of a few short cracks. You can traverse further right on this pitch and start clipping the bolts of Brain Dead/All The Nasties, or move left off the belay and pick up some mystery bolts that randomly appear.
P3 is 18' of 2" hand crack to reach summit via 5.5 climbing. Use gear and natural features to set anchor.
Walk off to climbers left towards Laguna Prieta. Be sure to scramble down to a break in the wall before reaching the lagoon. Continue back across toward the Front Side and Lunch Rocks.
Note: Descent can take as long as 20 minutes even if you know where you are going.
Location Divine Wind by the guidebooks description may not exist. This route (Divine Wind II?) starts outside of the chimney on the shoulder of the formation. I did not see any bolts or routes that were starting up inside the chimney.
Protection Pitch 1 - 4 bolts plus 2 bolt anchor @ Urinal Ledge.
Pitch 2 - 2 bolts, one right off the belay, the other higher up, small, and rusted.
Pitch 3 - short and easy 2" handcrack to summit.
Make your own anchor using 1" cams and/or slung features.
Starting moves just outside the Paul Bunyon chimne...
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Near the anchor at the top of the first pitch
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Russ starting the second pitch and wondering where...
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Russ higher on the second pitch, looking for bolts...
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If you are lucky, you might find this time bomb be...
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The easy hand crack that is the last pitch
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| Comments on Divine Wind / All the Nasties |
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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.8+ R
| This is a pretty good route if you like being off route and way way runout. It appears we went directly between All the Nasties and Brain Dead on the second pitch. I would suggest trying to pickup either of those bolts lines and following them instead of the one rusted bolt option I used. The climbing is pretty good though. |
By J. Nickel
Mar 1, 2013
| The first pitch up to the two-bolt anchor is reasonably protected with decent-looking Petzl bolts and is about 5.7. You can toprope the first pitch of All the Nasties (5.9 with well-spaced protection) from this anchor if desired. |
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