Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,894 total · 14/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Oct 16, 2007
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell

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Description Suggest change

From the top of the Malice Boulder, this route is located on the shoulder immediately to the right of Paul Bunyon Chimney.

P1 Climb well featured rock as you angle up and right towards Urinal Ledge to 2 bolt anchor.

P2 First bolt off of Urinal Ledge is to the left and up about 6 feet. Follow featured rock up to the headwall, wandering right past a rusted 1/4" bolt, and then continue without gear to a large ledge at the base of a few short cracks. You can traverse further right on this pitch and start clipping the bolts of Brain Dead/All The Nasties, or move left off the belay and pick up some mystery bolts that randomly appear.

P3 is 18' of 2" hand crack to reach summit via 5.5 climbing. Use gear and natural features to set anchor.

Walk off to climbers left towards Laguna Prieta. Be sure to scramble down to a break in the wall before reaching the lagoon. Continue back across toward the Front Side and Lunch Rocks.

Note: Descent can take as long as 20 minutes even if you know where you are going.

Location Suggest change

Divine Wind by the guidebooks description may not exist. This route (Divine Wind II?) starts outside of the chimney on the shoulder of the formation. I did not see any bolts or routes that were starting up inside the chimney.

Protection Suggest change

Pitch 1 - 4 bolts plus 2 bolt anchor @ Urinal Ledge.

Pitch 2 - 2 bolts, one right off the belay, the other higher up, small, and rusted.

Pitch 3 - short and easy 2" handcrack to summit.

Make your own anchor using 1" cams and/or slung features.

Photos

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