Although "fully bolted" may be close to the truth, most parties doing the whole climb may want to take a few slings and a light rack including TCUs, Friends up to #2, and a few stoppers. The last pitch is a bit more than a scramble with a 5.10a roof and a 40 foot unbolted 5.5 section. A 60 meter rope gets you back to the ground in 3 rappells
I found this line to be quite fun, but a little soft for the grade, more like 5.10+. Although the first pitch is the hardest of the three, I found the second pitch to be most rewarding because the line was more aesthetic and straightforward. I don't feel anything other than quickdraws is necessary, all the moves that are at all difficult are well protected with bolts.
Yo - Dan Hare and I added a 3 bolt direct start to Divination back in September. Goes somewhere along the lines of .11d/.12a (if you stay on the face rather than exiting right to the mank handjam). Makes for 30 m and 13 bolts of great climbing. Hope you enjoy it!
Setting up a route like Divination is so much work, I think it is relevant to get the FA information correct. I got the idea to do this line just after Bob Horan completed Earth Voyage.I began working on this line with Bonnie Von Grebe and completed the two upper pitches with her. Later Dan Hare and I worked out the first pitch. I have nice photos of Dan drilling on this pitch.Dan and I climbed the first pitch in the dark and rapped off. Amy Reynolds and I climbed the upper two pitches, then Dan and Amy climbed the whole thing while I was working on Diabolique with Bonnie. The FA should probably read: R Rossiter, Dan Hare, Bonnie Von Grebe, Amy Reynolds, 1996.
Hear!! Hear!! to Richard Rossiter. Sometimes the setting of big routes like Divination is more than just hard work. Sometimes it is downright spooky and intimidating. In getting long routes established, it is often necessary to rap off the rim and drop down one or two full rope lengths (sometimes many) just to check out a crag, before starting the work. It can be very little comfort indeed to tie a knot in the end of the rope (or two) and then rap right to it with several hundred more feet between yourself and terra firma -- very firma. Especially if the line overhangs. Imagine big, overhanging limestone in the middle of nowhere on the Western slope, miles from anything, all alone, at knot and with the wind blowing. Or same thing in Boulder Canyon. It's a lot more spooky than clocking up pitches in Eldo or on the Diamond.
Personally, I think that these long, multi-pitch routes that Richard Rossiter, Bob Horan, and Dan Hare have been doing are really inspirational. These routes on Lost Angel are fully sussed, well constructed, many pitches long, and as clean as anything can get in God's great outdoors. I'd buy that as just as significant as the hardest single move attainable on rock, more in fact.
After traversing left on the ramp at the start of pitch one, the first set of bolts encountered appears to be a new route and harder than 11b. Divination is one more set of bolts to the left. Does anyone have details on this other route that's between Divination and Earth Voyage?
The route between Divination and Earth Voyage is named ?? - goes at ballpark .13a. It is frequently mistaken for Divination - a Moe ? and Dan Hare route. A pair of cruxes, the first and harder in the neighborhood of bolts 5-6 and then a second still stout crux at about 8-10.
Hey, is it just me or did all the rain and snow sprout tons of penises and shrubs in Dream Canyon this year? Seems that it has been decorated like a Georgia O'Keefe gallery....
I'm sooo glad to hear, that the new bolts to the right of Divination are a different/harder line. I was about ready to take up bass fishing, if that was 11.b. Once Lyle and I discovered the correct line, we put off the trip to the bait and tackle shop. Great route! Much easier than its neighbor??? Plenty of bolts eg. no need for gear, also lots of options for the upper pitches.
I want to thank Richard Wright for his insight and consideration of those who dare to go where others have not and put it on the line to create something for the enjoyment and benefit of others. Royal Robbins once wrote, "The call of the first is strong." No doubt the forces that drive nuance are deep and complicated, never the less, there is an undeniable sense of giving to others and to the sport itself.
At least the FA should be listed correctly: R. Rossiter, Dan Hare, Bonnie Von Grebe, Amy Reynolds, 1996.
Yeah I too went straight up and got on that 12d line. I enjoyed a number of the moves until one spot where I just kept looking around trying to figure out the next move. After a couple minutes it dawned on me that I was on the pitch Jim Erickson warned me about. "If you do that line, make sure you take the bolts up and left rather than going straight up the whole way."
Anyway, reaching that sloper after the slightly bulging roof was tough for a short person.
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO Oct 10, 2004 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Great route. Beautiful rock all the way to the top. P1 seemed easy for 11b for me. A thin layback to reach over the ceiling to a big rounded hold. Done. Harder if short? P2 seemed way easier than the 11a given in the Rossiter guide. Maybe 10b? But fun. Had to rush P3 due to incoming rain, but it was also good fun. You traverse left through a roof. Chuck did as a slab (his specialty). I leaned out for the lip and did it as a roof (my specialty).
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Jul 8, 2005 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Nice long route. It may be rated a bit softly. I was able to use high steps and find good feet through all the cruxy secfitons.
Tom P wrote: "The route between Divination and Earth Voyage is named ?? - goes at ballpark .13a."
Anyone know what the 2nd pitch of said route is rated? Looks harder than 2nd pitch of Divination.
By Chris O'Connor From: bouldertown, co Jun 1, 2007 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
The route is called Dynamometer. The first pitch I've heard is height-dependent 12-13a, and the second pitch is slabby 11d. The first four bolts or so make a great, and I thought slightly easier, link up to the first pitch of Divination.
By Kyle Anderson From: Westminster, CO Sep 27, 2009 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
I thought this was right around 11b: much more so than the other route that I have done here- Strange Cargo. I could see where added reach or height could help with the crux on this one, but since I am avg height and have short arms, I had to do a long reach with some shady feet to get through it.
I thought this was about as classic as they get- Nice line, nice exposure, nice area, nice climbing. Pretty kick ass....
By Christina kalb From: Boulder, CO Sep 27, 2009 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
I am a bit shorter and thought that 11b was accurate. Some added height would have made it much easier (I couldn't reach the crimp off to the side of the roof that was really good). So my suggestion...if you are tall, you may find this slightly easier than 11b.
By Geoff U From: Highlands Ranch, CO Aug 6, 2012 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
1st 2 pitches are bolted well - would have appreciated a couple pieces on the 3rd though... a couple ~25 ft runouts.