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The Great Roof Area
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Diurnal pegs T 
Great Roof, The T 
True Great Roof, The 

Diurnal pegs 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Fa: Colin Bell, G.Lacroix FFA: John Bowles, Brent Cruickshank
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Ian Lingley on Aug 8, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Diurnal pegs, 11+

Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Diurnal pegs start just right of the great roof and follows cracks to piton protected crux, after the crux the climbing get a little dirty and finishes on a large fur tree. This route R rating is because of the run out to the first pin about 12-15 up.

Diurnal pegs was developed in 1977 by Colin Bell and G.Lacroix and was original an aid line that was given the aid grade of A1. Diurnal Pegs was the first climb in New Brunswick to have a bolt placed on it, the bolt was placed about 5 feet from the ground but was removed around 2010. In 2004 local hard men John Bowles and Brent Cruickshank freed the original line with a starting variation and gave the route a grade of 5.11 R.

Location 

Right of the great roof

Protection 

Bring a rack, There are 2 older pins placed on the climb that may need replacing.


Photos of Diurnal pegs Slideshow Add Photo
Diurnal pegs 5.11+.  The hidden Pin
BETA PHOTO: Diurnal pegs 5.11+. The hidden Pin

Comments on Diurnal pegs Add Comment
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By Chris Norfolk
From: Fredericton, New Brunswick
Aug 13, 2012

In 2010 Erick and I broke a bolt on this route very low to the ground. I'm not sure if that's the same bolt you mentioned. Weighted it... stepped onto it... and sheared the head clean off. It wasn't replaced since it was very low to the ground and other placements were available.
By Ian Lingley
Administrator
Aug 14, 2012

Yeah that's the old 1/4" bolt. It was in a weird spot looked like they were just practicing drilling.
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Aug 17, 2012

I looked a this route a few times and it looks like there is gear at the start?? I guess I'll have to climb it to find out.
By Ian Lingley
Administrator
Aug 20, 2012

There's a pin about 10 feet up. If it had a nice landing probably wouldn't be a problem, but with the landing its a little intimidating. The optional photo shows where the pin is and there no obvious crack before it.