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Genocide Cave
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Disturbance S 
Genocide T 
Green Envy S 

Disturbance 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed 1990
Page Views: 1,728
Submitted By: Will Hinckley on May 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Dan Brayack Photo

Description 

Continuous climbing with a distinct crux right in the middle. The crux involves delicate moves to get established in the crack followed by a long move between good pods.

Location 

Starts on face to the left of left facing corner before the face with all the classic crack climbs. Follow bolts past a small bulge to a crack with pods up gently overhanging face.

Protection 

Bolted with anchors at the top.


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By Brad Leneis
Sep 21, 2009

FA Doug Reed, I believe, for whom the crux was probably a mere lockoff.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Aug 19, 2012

One of the best sport climbs at the New. Good holds the whole way. Move quickly to avoid the pump.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 7, 2014

You are correct Brad, the first ascent was by Doug Reed in May 1990.