Dissonance  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Doug Reed Submitted By:  Fred Gomez on Oct 4, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Dissonance was the first 5.13 established on the Endless Wall. It has high quality stone, and a few intriguing moves, but the overall route quality does not reach the precedent set by routes likes Dial 911, Quinsana, Racist and Pocket Route. This route has got to be one of the reachiest routes at the New River Gorge, as many shorter climbers are rendered helpless at the mega undercling crux.

Begin by climbing through a roof, or simply reach past the roof with your feet on the ground if you are tall. Pulling the initial roof can be a bit challenging, but once established on the vertical face, the intensity eases for a few bolts. Expect 5.11+ climbing featuring long lock offs and technical footwork from the second to the sixth bolt. Bear down on some crimps, make some deep lock offs, and high step your way through the pre-crux between the sixth and seventh. Rest up a bit at the seventh, then launch into the engaging reachy crux. If you’re six feet tall the crux is no big deal, but if you’re short the crux will give you fits and likely send you packing for the RRG. Cool pocketed features and slopers guide you to the anchor.

A good strategy for attacking this route is to lower off of New World Order, hang draws and scope out the crux. It can be very difficult to spot hand holds in the crux region since the stone is pure white.

Location 

To the Left of New World Order. Route starts on a chossy ledge covered by a low roof.

Protection 

9 bolts + anchor