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Dispersed Camping - NoCal...

Original Post
Rich Palatino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 35

Howdy All,

My Wife and I are a month or so into our second summer climbing trip. We are getting ready to leave Colorado with our sites set on California. We are hoping to find some decent climbing areas where we might be able to settle down for a week or two at a time. We are fairly independent and autonomous in our vehicle. We are hoping to find BLM/Forest Service Land or the like where we can camp for several days at a time. Of course, we hope to be nearby to some quality climbing (Trad Preferred). Ideally, a place where we wouldn't have to move the vehicle everyday.

Last summer, we enjoyed Chapel Pond, NY and and Hartmann Rocks, CO as good examples. This year, Vedauwoo, WY was damn near perfect, if only the area wasn't such a niche-climbing destination. Hats-off to all those who've cut their teeth (and the rest of the body) at that place.

Anyway, if you have any destination in mind that might fit the bill, I'd appreciate it. We are currently in Golden looking to borrow guidebooks from the fantastic AAC library...a great resource and worth the price of membership!

Thanks everyone!

Van Living

Table

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

There is plenty of "dispersed" camping in the eastern Sierra, in Inyo National Forest. Check out the regulations, but I believe most of the roads up the canyons allow for it.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

Here are some spots where you can camp and climb without having to move a camping vehicle.

Pine Creek Canyon - several camping areas right near climbs, probably your best bet
Granite Mountain (Mammoth Area)
Lover's Leap Limestone - Shasta Area, sport limestone, never been but looks awesome
Bowman Lake, Tahoe Area - mostly single pitch sport
Phantom Spires, Tahoe
Lots of places up the Sonora Highway (108) - Donnell Reservoir, Chipmunk Flat, Herring Creek Dome.

many other places with campgrounds like Lover's Leap, Yosemite, Tuolumne, Whitney Portal.

some more southerly spots would be Dome Rock, Needles, Shuteye Ridge, Balls, Chimney Rocks in Sequoia, Alabama Hills

I think all of these locations are on MP.

Pine Creek is probably the best area for concentrated, multipitch trad climbs with a walk from the camping rig.

Rich Palatino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 35

Awesome! Thanks for the suggestions!

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Can't miss with Pine Creek, there's a summers worth of established routes, and 100's more to FA. Go to Wilson's Eastside and talk to Tai. He has a guidebook coming out for the Creek soon.
DOn't miss JFRM on PSOM. Thin fingers to roofs. Classic.
Moment of Zen if you like 5.11 fingers, and who don't?
The Main line is an 11 pitch 10.c with everything from thin fingers to chimney, awesome long layback, etc.
Up the hill is cardinal pillar, incredible high sierra splitters in white granite.
The camping is sweet in the canyon, just make sure you have a california fire permit (free online or at any ranger station) and a shovel. They get snarfy about it, and enforce it in the canyon.
And while we're at it, the best buritos, not that you asked, are at "Taco Illigal" on the tribal property just past (as you drive south) the casino. George does it all, yummy.
Wish i was there.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

The road to phantom spires is high clearance. I scrape in my Tacoma! California has this weird rule about dispersed camping. No camping within 5 miles of a campground, whether it is open or not!
Lovers Leap Limestone is stout sport mostly 11 and ^^, nice thing is that there is always something in the shade. About a 45min hike from the car. It is hot there (100º) now until September.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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