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 ADVANCED
North End
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Disneyworld T,S 

Disneyworld 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brian Phillips 8/12
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: JD1984 on Mar 13, 2013

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Description 

This route starts in an obvious open book before traversing the smooth, right side wall to the corner then up and around the large roof. Interesting, sustained 5.7 climbing past two bolts and eventually to the top. A 60m rope just made it down in one rap.


Location 

Toward the left side of the North End area there is an obvious open book capped with a large roof. Usually marked with a large amount of bird crap from nesting crows.

Protection 

G - Good gear abounds and two bolts protect an area which would otherwise offer no protection.


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By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
May 2, 2013

Does anyone know the status of the two bolts? 5/2/13
By Dmadison
From: CT
May 6, 2013

They were still there after la mesa got chopped so unless someone went back in the last month or so and destroyed them then they should be there.
By Russ Keane
Aug 30, 2013

The bolts are intact.

This climb is sweet!! The crux is at the top. There's a nice arete you have to go up, before the top. It is easily protected with a cam or two, and has fairly definite holds -- although a tricky-ish sequence. Fun stuff! This is what makes it 5.7.

Beautiful rock, varied movements, pretty serious exposure, and a fantastic beautiful setting!!
By mrnutty
Jun 25, 2014

The bolts on this climb (also Something Dirty and Don't Bleed on Me) were chopped sometime before 2014/06/24.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 30, 2014

I was just planning on leading this too.... Thanks for the heads up.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jul 2, 2014

The next time you see Ken Nichols you can thank him for this.

Ken Nichols
Ken Nichols
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jul 10, 2014

I have a bucket of used motor oil that would improve some of KNs favorite top ropes