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Jean Aschenbrenner traversing under the roof at th...
The classic 5.6 route in the Nears. Short approach and very popular.
Start about 30' left of Broken Sling, at a large corner capped by a roof. There is a big tree near the start of the climb.
P1: Climb up the face, angling right, past several old fixed pins. Make an awkward move around the nose to a cramped belay. 5.6, 45'.
P2: Move left and climb a steep corner to a roof, passing more old fixed pins. Traverse right under the roof, and continue to the top. 5.5, 110'.
Pitches 1 and 2 may be combined, avoiding the cramped belay, but it's almost impossible to avoid severe rope drag if you do this. Long runners, double ropes, and two-way radios are recommended if you want to do the climb in one pitch.
Lots of old fixed pins, plus a light rack of nuts and cams to 2".
BETA PHOTO: The 1st pitch of Disneyland - practice your anchor...
Disney Land Pitch 1
Eric Januszkiewicz (14) on 1st pitch
Eric on 2nd pitch (we broke it into 3 pitches to a...
Disneyland's first pitch
cruising to the top. as fun as any of the rides @...
BETA PHOTO: View of Disneyland from below. P1 goes left to rig...
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 1, 2006
Long runners are key. I recall doing this a while back in 1 pitch with a beginner rack with only 2 slings and having enormous drag issues at the top of this climb. Despite this, nice climb.
Jan 5, 2007
Double ropes, although still calling for extending placements, make this an excellent one-pitch climb. If you have occasion to try the whole route in one pitch, it's a great place to hone your double rope technique.
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 28, 2008
Very nice lead, and doubles are definitely a plus. I was a little concerned about finding a placement to protect the belay anchor starting off the second pitch, but found a great slot for a gold Ballnut.
I think this is also the route where I found a copperhead staring out at me from the horizontal where I was planning to place a green Camalot on P2. I ran it out instead.
Feb 19, 2008
In the spring of 1978 I took a friend up Disneyland for his first climb. He managed the first pitch okay, but ran out of gas on the second. Another friend who was with us came up the easy path from the north and joined me at the belay atop the route. He had a six-pack which we began while our pal thrashed on the face below. (He claimed his jeans were too tight to make a high foothold.) After a few minutes it was clear he couldn't finish the pitch, so we tried dragging him up. He was pretty heavy and we were laughing too hard too make much progress--we'd lift him a few feet then crack up, lose our grip, and drop him. He wasn't very happy. Defeated, I tied him off and we relaxed with our beers, enjoying the view while he swore at us. We encouraged him to rest and recover his strength; he swore louder. Then we heard rustling in the woods behind. A very large guy and his girlfriend appeared. I offered him a beer if he pulled on the rope. "I was in the Marines!" he declared, and swiftly drew our friend up to large holds. The Marine happily went on his way with a cold one and our pal, scowling and scraped, struggled up to us. He declined an opportunity to top rope Dirty Gertie.
Apr 14, 2008
It makes no sense to belay in the notch following the awkward mantle. Instead, move up into the open book/corner above and belay from there on a bomber piton backed up with nuts. You can then extend down to a better stance which allows you to watch your second on the face below. Really great climbing if you have your logistics sorted out.
|By John Peterson|
Apr 14, 2008
Long runners. One pitch. Long runners!
All of the belay stances are sucky - avoid them! There's also communication issues. If you're on top it's really hard to hear someone at the belay above the mantle. Much easier if they are on the ground and can walk out to where they can see you.
One of the best routes in the Gunks but it definitely gets more than it's share of gumbys. I was standing at the bottom once waiting for the belayer to leave the stance. Nothing was happening other than shouts that neither one could figure out. Walked up to the top and there was a guy sitting there at a complete loss - he had dropped his belay device and didn't know how to set a belay without it. They would have probably been up there all night if I hadn't come by!
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.7+ PG13
Fun climb, though the Swain guide has two photos of the route, and one is incorrect. The incorrect photo shows the climb going left at the third roof, whereas the route traverses right at this point.
Double ropes make this a good one-pitch route.
|By Nate Miller|
From: Chicago, IL
Oct 12, 2009
If you feel like extending most of your pro and running it out, doing it as one pitch with a single rope works just fine. Nice route!
Oct 13, 2009
I think the crucial part about extending is this: once you've done the mantle and made a move left, turn back and manually flip your rope towards you over the roof below. Makes the upper stuff much nicer.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Sep 4, 2010
Followed this today (likely to lead it someday soon). It's my new favorite Gunks climb. FUN!
From: New York, NY
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 PG13
Do it in one pitch, just make sure you extend your slings at the start. I've never seen so many pins on one climb at the Gunks. I think I used a total of 5 pieces of gears for the entire climb.
Aug 17, 2011
for what it is worth. Climbing Magazine rated this the best 5.6 climb in North America a few years ago. Not sure about that (better than Shockleys, High E and Madame G?), but it is very nice.
|By David Stowe|
Aug 18, 2011
Its not even remotely close to the best 5.6 in the Gunks let alone the country. It is a nice climb and fun, but hardly rates that high.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Apr 9, 2012
Long runners (48" or so) for the Nose area and you can easily get this in one pitch. Good fun, but def not the best 5.6 in the Gunks.
Oct 13, 2012
Directions to Disneyland: after a giant roof ("Kansas City") walk for about 30-35 feet, then down a little to a flat area with a horizontal hand-traverse crack about 5-6 feet above the ground. About 50-55 feet along that, reach a prominent nose overhanging. Another 35-40 feet reach a giant slanted triangular roof 10 to 20 feet off the ground - (at its right end which you reach first is the climb "Broken Sling"). Walk about 35 feet farther to reach the left end of the roof -- that's the start of Disneyland.
Nov 11, 2012
There's no need for the cramped belay of the first pitch (if doing it in two pitches). As Wormly81 pointed out, just continue a few feet higher past the cramped alcove to a solid-looking piton in a horizontal crack which easily takes additional pro to back up the piton.