|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches, 180'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Horan & Klee|
|Submitted By:||Bruce Pech on May 11, 2003|
|Comments on Disneyland||Add Comment|
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By Kevin Neilson
Jun 14, 2006
Pitch one of this route is just great. Pitch two is a bit mossy and OK, but not highly recommended. Two important pieces of information: the chockstone surrounded by orange lichen in the photo is soon to be freed from the surly bonds of its mortal coil, and hopefully its freedom won't be mortal for the belayer. Also, there is currently but one rap ring at the P1 anchors, so the rope must be fed through one of the anchor bolts directly, creating quite a bit of drag when pulling.
A slab section near the bottom is tricker than it appears. You may go left, directly up the thin slab, or do a lieback to the right. In the picture of P1 you see three right-pointing triangles. The apex of the first is near the chockstone. At the second, I recommend stemming the feet high to get the great two-fist jam; with this in place you can walk the feet up.
The third right-pointing triangle is the crux. It is very balancy, requiring a lieback on the arete with poor feet. Then you swing around, getting your stomach upon the slabby top part of the triangle in a trad-like move. There are no good holds to use and the friction of the open palm and forearm are required. Once the torso is on the slab, you can reach high to the right for a crappy sidepull. The bold part entails then leaning back and walking the feet up onto the slab before the clip attempt. The first time I tried this route I took several falls from this point but didn't manage to hurt myself. Thereafter a finger jam aids in the exit from the dihedral to the easy slab above. The crux move is all about balance and can be a bit distressing.
By Peter Irving
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 7, 2007
|Great climb today in early October flurries! Felt solid until I pulled on a loose block just to the right of the 5th (?) bolt and watched it go... scary. * the block directly above the first red X bolt mark in the detailed picture of the upper section.|
From: Longmont, Co.
Aug 5, 2012
|Pitch 1 has 13 bolts to anchor.|
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 18, 2014
|Be careful of the sharp edge on the dihedral @ 2nd to last bolt. It could cut your rope if you were unlucky!|