This is another big Wonderland dome that most people just cruise past on their way to the Bighorn Mating Grotto, but it has a couple of good routes worth doing. It is south and west facing so it gets good sun most the day. It also has a few routes on its north side to check out on warmer days.
The south face is characteried by huge plates and chickenheads, providing bomber holds and slung pro for the somewhat runout routes on this side of the rock. The best route on this face is Jungle Cruise (5.10b), a finger to hand crack.
The west face has the excellent dike traverse route Mental Bankruptcy, which can be done in 2 or 3 pitches.
Rappel bolts/rings have been installed for descending the south side routes. From the topout of Jungle Cruise, walk east about 20 feet on a ledge and you'll see them. A 50 meter rope gets you down.
The trailhead for this rock is the dirt parking lot for Uncle Willie's Health Food Store. There are really good maps in the Vogel guide p. 281 and 306, which will get you right to the rock. Following is a rough description of the approach:
Drive past the turnoff to Barker Dam and take the next left on the dirt road. Park at the lot, and start walking up an old dirt road which has a wire blocking vehicle access. A few hundred feet up this road there is an obvious trail to the left - take this trail. After this turn you walk up a wash, passing Uncle Willie's (a ruined brick building), and continue almost directly north in a big wash for a mile, maybe more. You will pass many climbs on either side of the wash, and the Astro Domes will soon come into view to your left.
After you pass the Freak Brothers Dome (very obvious - long dome with 3 rounded aretes facing west) you will see the plated south face of Disneyland Dome to the northeast. The approach takes about 45 minutes from the car.
Start about 40' down and left from Enchanted Stairway below an obvious crack system that starts partway up the face.Face climbing leads into the crack which varies from fingers to hands (5.10b) and then ends about 2/3 of the way up the face. After the crack ends move up and right on huge plates (5.6) to the ledge Enchanted Stairway ends on. To descend head east (towards Thrutcher Dome) through a notch to reach rap anchors above the shorter east face. One rope easily makes it down.A superb route ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
The rappel bolts / rings on the upper end of the east face of the Disneyland Formation are at the top of a route that is not listed in R. Vogel's or A. Bartlett's guidebooks. It begins about 50' right of "Walt's Frozen Head" on a steep face that leads to a right curving tips crack (crux - 5.10d?). At the top of the crack are a series of large holds that lead to a rounded arete with two bolts (5.9) and a slab finish with one bolt. The climbing is fun (2 out of 5 stars). Does anyone know who established the route or the rating given by the FA?