Dislocation Direct 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Lovejoy, Bjorklund, Madin, 1971 |
| Submitted By: | Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 7, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Dislocation Direct begins on Pine Tree Ledge, or y...
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Description Start on Pine Tree ledge about 30' left of the start to the Dislocation standard route. Climb obvious crack systems straight up to a ledge (optional belay) and follow more nice cracks up and left (where the standard route traverses right) to a belay nearly 60m ropelength up. From here climb a corner to a ledge, a short face section, and another corner to the top. An excellent and mellow adventure.
Protection Gear to 2", doubles if doing as two long pitches.
Ginger leads p2 Dislocation
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August leads first pitch of Dislocation Direct
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Nas coming up the 3rd pitch.
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| Comments on Dislocation Direct |
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By juggy
From: Denver, CO
Nov 7, 2007
| the alt route directly one pitch lower brings you up through a tree, but makes for a great warm up |
By Nick Smolinske
Nov 7, 2010
| Not sure if this is what juggy meant, but doing the first pitch of dislocation buttress to get to pine tree ledge is a great warmup. Starts with the dihedral that's pretty much exactly where the trail drops you off at the base of the slabs. After that pitch there's a nice little unroped traverse off to climber's left to start dislocation direct. |
By Tim Heid
From: Tempe, Az
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.6
| Great climb! We started on the Pine Tree Ledge. I would recommend doing it in 3 pitches to stop on the best ledges and limit rope drag.
From the Pine Tree Ledge climb about 70' and stop at the quartz band on a nice ledge. Link 2 and 3 for about a 100' pitch and stop on another nice ledge below broken blocks. P3 is 40' of fun jamming that leads to 3rd class terrain to the walk off trail. |
By manuel rangel
Nov 26, 2012
| We just did it in 4 pitches; like Tim's description but we added the first pitch of Dislocation and walked left to the start of Direct. I could have run the last two together but was worried about drag. |
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