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Dislocation Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Lovejoy, Bjorklund, Madin, 1971
Page Views: 3,312
Submitted By: Tavis Ricksecker on Jun 7, 2007
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Ginger leads p2 Dislocation
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Description 

Start on Pine Tree ledge about 30' left of the start to the Dislocation standard route. Climb obvious crack systems straight up to a ledge (optional belay) and follow more nice cracks up and left (where the standard route traverses right) to a belay nearly 60m ropelength up. From here climb a corner to a ledge, a short face section, and another corner to the top. An excellent and mellow adventure.


Protection 

Gear to 2", doubles if doing as two long pitches.



Photos of Dislocation Direct Slideshow Add Photo
August leads first pitch of Dislocation Direct
August leads first pitch of Dislocation Direct
Nas coming up the 3rd pitch.
Nas coming up the 3rd pitch.
Comments on Dislocation Direct Add Comment
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By juggy
From: Lakewood Colorado
Nov 7, 2007

the alt route directly one pitch lower brings you up through a tree, but makes for a great warm up

By Nick Smolinske
Nov 7, 2010

Not sure if this is what juggy meant, but doing the first pitch of dislocation buttress to get to pine tree ledge is a great warmup. Starts with the dihedral that's pretty much exactly where the trail drops you off at the base of the slabs. After that pitch there's a nice little unroped traverse off to climber's left to start dislocation direct.

By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Great climb! We started on the Pine Tree Ledge. I would recommend doing it in 3 pitches to stop on the best ledges and limit rope drag.

From the Pine Tree Ledge climb about 70' and stop at the quartz band on a nice ledge. Link 2 and 3 for about a 100' pitch and stop on another nice ledge below broken blocks. P3 is 40' of fun jamming that leads to 3rd class terrain to the walk off trail.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 26, 2012

We just did it in 4 pitches; like Tim's description but we added the first pitch of Dislocation and walked left to the start of Direct. I could have run the last two together but was worried about drag.