This is a fantastic pitch on par with many of the routes on BOTB getting 3.5 stars. Required exquisite stemming, laybacking, fingerlocking and faceclimbing skills all while placing bomber blue TCUs (need at least 5). Very sustained with some decent at best rests. Deserves classic status for the grade.
By Luke Stefurak From: Mountain View, CA Dec 1, 2008 rating: 5.12+7c28IX27E6 6b
God i was pretty close to getting this one . The whole zippering the gear video is ridiculous. There is great blue metolius tcus,green aliens protecting the first crux where the dude fell. He must have had bad gear placements. Stem hard on this one and send! I actually got through the lower difficult stuff to a good rest....the upper crux is figuring out the gear...difficulty backs down quite a bit...but flared, softer rock is intimidating....remember to bring a set of green,red and gold camalots for the pods on this route. Wonderful climb!
Felt a bit soft for 12. Great stemming most of the way, and great gear up high (#1 and #2 Camalots). Sure it gets thin, I even placed a slidernut, but you're above BOMBER gear and there are great footholds.
Don't be intimidated.
By ben jammin From: Moab, UT Feb 25, 2013 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b PG13
I whipped on a .2 camelot.. it held! edit post send.. place the red Camelot and run that shit out!