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On the left side of the steep south face of the Happy Boulder.
Sit-start under the lip of the small cave, under or just left of the big hueco. Start with hands either on the thread hold or the outside of the hueco. Climb up the hueco to a big move to fair left-hand pocket and right-hand crimp (using any of a number of tricky sequences and lots of core tension!) Then, launch up the steep face and catch that perfect juggy hand-sized hueco just below the lip. Don't blow the topout. Your abs might be sore after working on this absolutely classic problem!
|By Ben Snyder|
From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Mar 26, 2008
rating: V8 7b
Disco Diva starts in the thread (hueco), not below it. Felt like hard V8 to me, but I went righthanded to the jug on the send just before realizing that going up left is significantly easier.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Sep 18, 2008
You're right.. my description maybe was misleading. I didn't mean to start way back in the cave, although that would be an entertaining extension that probably wouldn't change the grade of the problem. I start both hands on the left side of the hueco, feet below. I don't use the thread, but whatever sequence works for you. Good on ya for the send, I haven't finished it yet. On the top of my list for this season.
Aug 11, 2013
rating: V8 7b
drop knee. drop knee. knee bar. toe hook. wild jump.
even after a few hold have broken, this is still one of the more fun problems out there.
for the jump... if you're tall it's easiest to go left hand. if you're short, however, it's easiest to really crank down on the miserable left hand crimp and go right hand.
oh... if you latch the jug you REALLY want to control the swing. flying off that hold after the swing is a good way to get hurt.
(oh... and to those who say it's a height dependent jump problem... I'm 5'5").