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Disco Death March 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 1977: Don Perry, Mike Burlingame and Cheyene Willis
Page Views: 786
Submitted By: Ryan Chelstowski on Oct 2, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Tree bottom right is at the belay on top of the bo...
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great climb if you want some off-width action in the Gunks!

According to the Dick Williams Guide: Start about 5 feet right of Big Chimney. Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and the base of a chimney.

Approach: From the start of Baby, scramble up and out left on a grassy ledge for 15 feet to belay on top of the boulder with a tree growing out of it directly below the off-width roof.

Pitch 1: Scramble up ten feet and begin to traverse left under the off-width roof eventually gaining access to the arete. Follow the off-width up to the ledge and base of Big Chimney.

Try to climb it as an off-width, it is harder. But if you are having some trouble, climb it as a layback in the vertical, it looks like it would be much easier


Location 

Take the Baby trail from the carriage road. Continue left at the fork in trail. In about 30 feet, this will take you directly below the obvious off-width, Disco Death March.


Protection 

G rated, but requires large gear.
Recommended: 2-#6's, 1-#5 as a minimum
Rappel at top of ledge



Photos of Disco Death March Slideshow Add Photo
Traverse under the roof
BETA PHOTO: Traverse under the roof
Comments on Disco Death March Add Comment
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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
Oct 3, 2012




Get all your beta here..

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 3, 2012

Fun video! The route looks nice.

By Ryan Chelstowski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 3, 2012

Put fresh static on the rap anchor on 10/1 when I ran it.

By vanishing spy
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

Watch your cams after you clip the anchor and weight the rope. We had our rope walk our cams right up into the void and it turned into a production to retrieve them. In hindsight it may be better to belay the second up from above. Two 6-inch pieces are a minimum but if you have a third you should bring it.

By CheyenneWills
Mar 10, 2014

Just some trivia on the first ascent (at least what I remember from it :)

It was Don and Mike's route really.

Don and Mike were looking around for some off width gear to use and I had a couple of #11 Hexs in the car (this was before spring loaded cams), so I was invited along for the adventure.

I remember following and cleaning stacked Hexs (yeah.. real secure)

Don more then likely climbed the route in his work boots.

I think I came up with the name Disco Death March, mostly because of the under cling traverse.