|Type:||Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Rotert, McMillan 1982|
|Submitted By:||Nathan Fisher on Mar 12, 2005|
|Comments on Disco Chicken||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Sep 15, 2008
1. mantle, mantle, mantle, then mantle your way to the top.
2. bring a #2 camalot if you want to protect the direct exit.
3. carry your gonads home in a wheel barrel.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2011
|Testy! Your first pro is a slung chickenhead about 15 feet up after climbing some semi-flakey rock, then its spaced chickenheads for another 3 bolts. Some of them are really far apart. I found myself mantle-dynoing. One final chickenhead after the 3rd bolt provides pro before the final bulge pull, but this thing is still R and hard! Best to TR it before leading.|